Bean Here, Bean There

Over 1000 Flavours

2012-01-13T18:24:00.001Z

I think everyone has heard it; coffee contains over a thousand flavour components that makes it one of the most complex food products known to man.

Here is a quick question for you; of those 1000+ how many are necessary for a coffee flavour to be perceived?

....answer: <30

New Year, New Post and New Direction?

2012-01-06T01:02:00.000Z

Happy new year to the readers of this blog (both of you!)

The end of one year, the start of another, a time for reflection, and redirection.

Personally 2011 for me was a rather insightful period; working the brew bar and Strada at Notes alongside passionate staff and customers was both rewarded and challenging. The coffees we had were often outstanding, the results often mixed. I'm still scratching my head when it comes to pressure profilling; and I believe I'm not the only one. The cause and effect deduction attempts were often too reductionist; simplying the myriad of possible profiles to simpler ones, and then trying to reason a correlation coefficient between the cause of pressure change and the sensory effect. The manual Strada consistently dealt inconsistent shots due to individual differences of baristi, thereby reducing the efficiency as a machine, which further inhibits the validity one attempts to draw from this pseudo-scientific observational search. Nevertheless, there are individuals and companies with tacit knowledge on profilling, yet how this can be incorporated by the cafe and experienced by the consumer remains a challenge for 2012. A thank you is due to those that have gone out their way to provide information or research to me regarding profilling (you know who you are, and I'm sincerely grateful).

Besides Notes, I had the pleasure to work the summer with Ristretto, the London based events company. The travel and experience of working as part of the Ristretto team benefited me in many many, providing insight in to a completely different segment of the rather large umbrella we hold over the showering 'specialty' coffee.

In mid August I packed my bags yet again, this time to move to the Netherlands, to resume my studies with an MSc in Sensory Science. I believe it was mentioned at this years Nordic Barista Cup that perhaps the best way to step forward and progress within the specialty market is to take a step sideways, to look at other facets of hospitality, retail and marketing, and then integrate them into our familiar surroundings. Selling solely coffee to a consumer can be a very challenging business concept, especially when one compares the markup in wine, spirits or food to the dark stuff we brew.

Perhaps there is room to 'rebrand' the coffee experience by integration of a wine / spirit bar with the coffee platform. Perhaps there isn't. The point I wish to make is to further our understanding of what drives the consumer to decide between concept A and B, and what each concept offers the consumer in terms of values. So often I hear or see a formulaic repetition of a successful concept of a cafe; a 'me too' idea. This may have the benefit of being accepted by the consumer in the short run, but is there sufficient uniqueness for the medium to long term? Perhaps those that own individual stores could comment on the research that is required (even in hindsight) to increase probability of success? Over the forthcoming period of time, London will see a saturation of independent stores in the eyes on the consumer, and so simply preaching that specialty is self-righteous and superior in itself may be erroneous and pretentious - subsequently leading to that 'inclusive' vibe which we have all experienced, at least vicariously.

Back to the Netherlands....or should I say Copenhagen. I shall be moving to Denmark in a few weeks, in the next step on the course which features more Sensory and Flavour Research modules, and indeed wish to get coffee work on a part-time basis. I'll also be making plans to study coffee as part of my thesis, depending on supervision. I look forward to taking a few visits to the fellow Nordic countries, and observing the coffee experience in yet another country. And, with a bit of luck, I hope to write a few blogs about my experiences!

Happy new year.

A new recruit

2011-11-09T19:54:00.000Z

Over two months without a post - well, what can I say. Not a lot from how things appear!

I've been busy though. University is going well, athough it is consuming all my time. Hence little activity on this blog...sorry.

Anyhow, following todays chemistry lecture on chocolate a friend and I were discussing coffee. She hates the stuff, but needed a caffeine boost. I asked her to try a little Aeropress brew of the Het Koffielab Guatemala Finca de Dios I have made, the beans kindly given to me from Kim Staalman. Her response after tasting "it's sour, fruity and not bitter, with a really long after-taste. Can I have some more? It's just not like coffee"

Happy days!

Tis great coffee by the way. Thanks Kim!

Coffee and Research; A Call for Ideas

2011-08-25T12:03:00.000+01:00

I've recently relocated from the UK, and am currently based in the Netherlands where I am undertaking my Masters Degree. The second semester of year one sees me move to Copenhagen, where I also have to write a thesis in Sensory Science and undertake a six month work placement.

With my interests in coffee (and beverages in general; wine, whisky, beer) I would be interested to run sensory research within the coffee domain. Later this week the Nordic Barista Cup takes place, with the kernel theme being Sensory Science theory and application. It would be exciting to take a glance at some of the research presented, and perhaps further explore some of the findings raised by taking the research in a new direction.

I therefore ask those attending and talking at the NBC to get in touch if they feel they would like to run further experiements and tests, but are unable to due to time and financial constraints. I would be willing to invest my time, energy and resources to run research as part of my degree thesis.

Additonally, a six month work placement (unpaid) is mandatory, which could further incorporate running research programs.

Feel free to contact by leaving an email address and name below, and I will email you directly if interested.

London

2011-08-10T21:12:00.000+01:00

The blog has been in hibernation over the Summer. Since leaving Notes in June, I've worked as a barista in Prague and Stockholm, enjoyed great brewery tours at Meantime (Greenwich), and was fortunate to tour the Glenfiddich and Dalwhinnie distilleries in single-malt capital Dufftown.

However, this post is rather succinct and about something completely different. London has been in upheaval over the past 3 nights, and unfortunately it has become apparent that an old employer of mine, Cafe Freddo in Ealing, was one premises that the rats of the London decided to spread their plague, amongst others in London.

I'm glad the cafe is now back on its feet and that those going to London or Ealing will support the cafe, in addition to other, in rebuilding what was so disgracefully damaged.

Brewers Cup: Competition Improvements

2011-06-30T22:02:00.000+01:00

I took part in the UK Brewers Cup a couple of weeks back. Last post was dedicated to the brew I would of served, had I made it to round two. Subsequently, and perhaps, fittingly, this post elucidates my opinion on what can be improved for 2012.

In no particular order.
1. Lets have blind judging in round 1 .
The rules say blind judging (i think!). To me, that would be best if the judges were completely blind to (i) who was making the brew, and (ii) brewing method. How do we achieve this? All baristi arrive at the start of the day and are randomly allocated a time, which is blind to the judges. The judges then evaluate beverages in an isolated area away from the baristi. This would help to mitigate any potential bias that may influence scores / judging. I am not saying the judges were biased at the UK Brewers Cup, only that there is room for bias to breath. Having a more controlled, randomised order, unbeknown to the judges helps to alleviate this problem and any preconceptions judges may have of superior / inferior brewing methods (Fabio: "shitty Aeropress man!")

2. What to do with TDS?
TDS scores provide a more objective measure of consistency between brews. Surely this could be incorporated into evaluation protocol. If there are three wide ranging TDS scores, how is the barista sure of what they are brewing, not what they will end up with. Variations between brews are rarely prevalent after looking at UK Brewers scoresheets, yet this statistic is not integrated into scores given. Consistent brews behind a brew bar are paramount...and fairy difficult!

3. Mean time.
Lets get competing baristi to undertake both rounds 1 and 2, and then take a mean of the two rounds to calculate a winner. Obviously round 2 is not blind. But this year, only 6 out of 20 (30%) of baristi got to showcase their coffees in round 2. Quite wasteful.

4. More judges please.
Palate fatigue was surely evident at the UK Brewers Cup. Over 70 samples to evaluate for each of the three judges. Let's remove this source of potential source of error for next year.

5. What to make of SCAE recommendations for TDS?
The judges should taste the drink blind, unaware of who made it, how they made it, or what the TDS was. However, as was evident at the UK Brewers, what do we make of SCAE recommendations if the winning beverages are way out of the window of 1.2-1.45TDS. For example, the top brew in Round 1was made by James Hoffmann with TDS scores I think in the range of 0.85 - 1.1 (correct me if I'm wrong James). Is it therefore time we updated the research into flavour appreciation of coffee and scrapped this myopic outlook of 1.2-1.45? Discuss.

Please leave comments, thus post isn't meant to be negative, just trying to provoke positive feedback discussion.

UK Brewers Cup; My Brew

2011-06-13T17:21:00.000+01:00

Every filter coffee epicure and his dog was out on Saturday for the inaugral UK Brewers Cup. The unheard of and rank outsider, Mr James Hoffmann won. Congrats to him

This first blog is to part of a small Brewers Cup series, with this one focusing on the brew that I didn't get to serve!

Coffee: 75% Kenya Tekangu (Tim Wendelboe) and 25% Sumatra Wahana Estate (James Gourmet)

Method: Aeropress.
1) 200g water poured into an inverted Aeropress.
2) Add 13g coffee to the 75 degree water.
3) 8 x circular agitations to ensure homogenized blend of water and coffee.
4) After one minute of steep, agitate further by 2 circular stirs. Fix cap
5) After 1:20 min flip the Aeropress 180 degrees. Plunge for 25 seconds, stopping when one hears the sound of the gases inside the Aeropress being forced out (i.e do not force all matter out of the Aeropress).
6) Ideally decant a small amount of the brew (70g) in to a brandy class, and keep the remainder inside the jug one used for the Aeropress. However, to comply with regulations for Brewers Cup, serve 150g beverage in one glass.

Aim: subjectively to make a well balanced and complex coffee, and beat Fabio (mission successful on the latter option at least!) . The high notes of the Tekangu was analogous to Hendrix on the guitar. With a smooth, sapid Wahana providing spice, body and dark citrus notes, the resulting brew was a rather delicious composition. Objectively a 19% yield, and 1.4TDS was consistently attained. Consistency is a feature the Aeropress patents, and was one of the reasons for why I decided to use it.

Why Aeropress. In addition to consistency between brews, ease of use, portability and ease of cleaning were factors in choosing this brew method. During my tenure at Notes, a generalised opinion would be that I favoured the cloth woodneck brew in terms of flavour, body and after taste. I figured most competitors would use this brew, and I completely understand why.

So I started out trying to be a little different and hopefully was not too prosaic with my brews. I brewed coffee using 75 degree Celsius water in order to pronounce the delicate acidic notes of James Gourmet coffees. The Tekangu and Wahana Estate (the latter being the best Sumatran I've had) are inherently sweet, so this attribute would prevail at lower temps. Blending coffees from two different roasters woudl also be a unique facet to my armoury I hoped.

Brewing with the Aeropress, I consistently develop TDS scores between 1.3 - 1.45, depending on how well I know the grinder. Thus, I believed I could develop good body and mouthfeel, heightened acidity, a complex aftertaste, lingering sweetness with rather pronounced aromatics. The last attribute would be heightened by serving in a brandy class, which encourages swirling and therefore an homogenized, cooler beverage for the consumer to enjoy in addition to greater volitization of aromatics.

On a slight tangent, I am very much of the opinion that glass and ceramic cups could do with a little rethink. I prefer to be able to swirl my coffee, whether it be espresso or filter, which dutifully cools the drink and fosters an environment more suited for evaluation and appreciation.

Back to the Brewers Cup; here are two of the three judges scores for my drinks for round 1 whereby all entrants used the same coffee which was unknown. I am competitor 10.

TDS scores of 1.42 and 1.43 illustrated here, with my third brew being 1.47, off the top of my head. Not a great deal of adjectives used by the judges however (if any).

Time to close the Notes-book

2011-05-29T20:58:00.000+01:00

I've decided to call time on with Notes. It's been a difficult decision, but it feels right to pack my bags and head off overseas to study Sensory Science on a more permanent basis. So, come August I'm in Holland, then come February in Copenhagen as part of a two-year Masters degree.

Info on the course can be found here.

To save a little money, I decided to leave London come early June, which also means I miss out on preparation for the Brewer's Cup, which I would have loved to invested in. Tepid temp aeropress or woodneck are my tips for competitors.

Work placements are mandatory as part of the two-year course, so I'm certainly all ears to potential employers who could accommodate a sensory scientist in their department for 4-6months

I'll also be eager to do the occasional barista shift at festivals (throughout Europe) over the early Summer this year, so please get in touch should an opportunity arise!

It'll also be great to meet to say bye to a few folk at the Brewers Cup on June 11, which should be my last day in the capital for a little bit at least!

Japan Fundraiser @ Notes

2011-04-09T21:25:00.000+01:00

For those that don't know, this Sunday at Notes we will be raising funds for victims of the Japanese tsunami.

They're will be some quality prizes up for grabs, such as doing dishes and mopping the floor. Seriously though, the kind folk at Coffee Hit, Has Bean and Square Mile have generously donated a lot of goodies. Entry is a fiver, all proceeds going to a good cause.

6pm. Sunday. See you there.

http://notesmusiccoffee.com/

Amsterdam

2011-03-30T12:34:00.000+01:00

I visited the Dutch capital last week. There are a million and one 'coffee' shops in the city, if you catch my drift, but is the specialty scene proliferating ala London?

Well, firstly, major thanks to Coffee Company consummate barista Kim Staalman for showing me the ropes and for the background info on coffee in Amsterdam and the Netherlands. Kim will do well in future comps, guaranteed.With Kim's assistance I visited Espressofabriek, Screaming Beans, Two For Joy, Coffee Salon and one outlet of the omnipresent Coffee Company (a similar business model to Mojo of Wellington, for the readers of this blog in NZ).

Here's a few photographs illustrating my inept photography skills:

Firstly Espressofabriek; feat V60 brew bar, Uber boiler.

Coffee Salon:

A double espresso of genorous proportions!

Next stop; Two For Joy. Micro-roaster, offering a choice of single origins and various brewing methods.

Finally, Screaming Beans - arguably the best espresso based coffee I had. They also offer SCAE barista accreditation, although their protocol for V60 may need a bit of an update.The day after I visited SB implemented a syphon bar. A nice theatherical move! And probably the best place for a brew in Amsterdam. That or Espressofabriek based on my experience at least.

Sex, drugs and more sex in Amsterdam! Strange muriel on the wall.

What was interesting about the trip then? a) the lack of information on packaging present; no farm name, no varietal information, no tasting notes, just a general place of origin (eg Kenia) to be found, although a roast date was prescribed; b) a few barista's choosing to import HasBean and Square Mile, instead of more local roasteries because in their opinion foreign imports were of better quality, c) more table service than in the UK - it will only be a matter of time before a London has refutes take-aways, and promotes table service, for informative baristi to rotate between working the floor and behind the bar, d) lever machines everywhere!, e) lack of progression with filter coffee protocols.

UKBC finals

2011-03-16T10:43:00.000Z

A brief post of congratulations and good luck to the six finalists in today's UKBC. I was personally hoping Andy Carter would make it, but not to be. Six great barista's though.

I particularly enjoyed the espresso decant by Dale Harris....more on a new 'tasting method' to follow (extrapolated from the wine industry). Decanting increases surface area, thereby increasing volatisation, whilst decreasing the temperature to a more tepid range - well suited for flavour appraisal. Dale's performance with the dried smoke from the coffee roaster was also very original - it is good to see a sense of originality into a national competition which could really do with a bit of a re-shake.

Sensory Tip of the Day

2011-02-16T17:19:00.001Z

Try serving espresso and especially long blacks / Americano's with an accompany glass of tonic water containing quinine. Ask your customer to drink the tonic water first, so that their palate adapts to the natural bitterness present. On sipping the coffee, bitterness is masked with sweetness and acidity accentuated. The carbon dioxide present in the tonic water will work on trigeminal nerve receptors, and thereby aid smoothness of the coffee served.

If serving (acidic) ristretto's trying accompanying the beverage with tonic or tap water with a lemon slice.

Give it a go barista's and gain some feedback. This suggestion is made based on the research of Tim Hanni, MW.

The future....online cupping?

2011-02-13T19:43:00.000Z

My blog posts have been a little bit too infrequent over the last month or so, and whilst there have been many drafts posts on the likes of judging calibration, tasting descriptors, and sensory techniques which I started but haven't finished, I thought I'd write one in ten minutes and publish.

So, the Nordic Barista Cup 2011 is focusing on Sensory Science, a topic that I have a vested interest in. I am currently trying to calibrate my 'wine nose' with the use of Wine Nosing Aroma Kit, and came across some future research plans involving Warwick University which are intriguing to say the least....

Essentially, employing a Real Virtuality (ie virtual reality) headset and computer, people from across the globe will be able to have an indistinguishable aromatic experience from that of drinking a real glass according to the author / lead researcher (glass of wine that is). The implication is that once wine has been successfully transplanted into the online aromatic world, aromatic compounds from beverages such as spirits, beers and coffee will be able to be transported online and effectively sniffed by an online community who could express opinion mirroring or contrasting those of the roaster / marketing guru. The research is still in relative infancy, but given ten years should be close to fruition (check Warwick University aroma school for more info)

Why is this good? Well, one of the grave dangers that the coffee world often pontificates is specific tasting descriptors, despite the lack of a 'calibrated' nose or common agreement upon what constitutes 'x' or 'y' aroma. The sense of smell is highly subjective; some folk may be highly sensitive to a certain smell, whereas others will not be able to detect it. This provides a general critique to the highly specified tasting notes which lay fulsomely on many products, not just coffee but also wine, chocolate, spirits and more, and also a criticism to national judging calibration for barista competitions, whereby no threshold level for the basic tastes amongst judges are assessed. The lack of calibration is also somewhat embarrassing for an industry; it is time for aroma identification and agreement by researchers and the industry. This ameliorates knowledge, training programmes and ultimately the cup devoured by Joe Public. I hope the Sensory conference in Copenhagen later this year touches on some of these auspicious future research opportunities.

The Glass Ceiling

2011-01-27T00:53:00.000Z

Has the Barista Competition reached saturation point?

Is there anything new to add that has not been done before?

How can the public get more involved?

...and most importantly (applicable to those that attended the south east UKBC): does bubble wrap work for flooring, especially in vicinity of microphones?

Time to think

Cupping @ Peter James Gourmet

2011-01-19T21:03:00.000Z

Monday January 16 2011: Cupping at Peter James Gourmet, Ross-on-Wye, Herefordshire. Roasting coffee is a bit of an esoteric beast; a handful of companies supply the leading independants' in the UK, and London is dominated by three (Square Mile, Monmouth and Union, although Has Bean appear to be slowly changing this dominance). Step forward James Gourmet, a roaster known to those coffee folk of the Midlands, South West and Wales but rarely talked about in the big city. A true coffee treasure cache to many. Peter, the company founder and owner, is a revered figure within the industry, who years of experience have developed a product-driven, quality-focused business, that is refreshing to see (and delightful to imbibe).

I was kindly accommodated in to the busy working schedule of PJG, shown around the roastery, briefly caught up with Midland UKBC entrant Andrew Carter, before a cupping table was established.

And some sensational coffees were cupped; the Kenyan Karamikui was simply stunning, joining a trio of African coffees that stood out as exceptional. It's no wonder that a number of baristi have chosen PJG as their roaster for the upcoming UK BC (and Irish BC too).

Also managed to try the Trifecta brewing machine; it's the Strada of the filter world.

Many thanks to Peter and his team for their time and hospitality, check out the last remnants of the PJG Caffe Naturelle espresso blend at Notes this week.

UKBC

2011-01-09T00:26:00.001Z

Well, sorry for the delay in posts over the last month. I kind of half wrote 3 or 4 blogs then summoned them to the scrap heap; its growing quickly.

I've been undecided as to whether 2011 was going to see me enter the UKBC. I decided not to enter. It was a difficult decision but I one that I feel is validated. Having been revising for an upcoming Sensory Science exam, I have been left questioning many things about the coffee industry, many things that make me question the grounds to which we plant what we preach. I'm left in a rather ambiguous state of not-knowing whether a vast quantity of what we (or perhaps more specifically 'I') do is scientifically evinced or applicable for the many segments of the consumer market. Perhaps knowing is the most inferior stage of learning as Tim Hanni expresses.

I will write more over the forthcoming period regarding the above,

Good luck to those entering,

London, Coffee, Minimum Wage....

2010-12-08T20:18:00.001Z

A friend and I were recently planning a little cafe crawl in central London. My friend refused (and still refuses) to purchase coffee from one independent not on the grounds of bad coffee, but on the way they treat their staff. Recently this cafe has been employing.

Is £6.50 p/hour a liveable wage for an experienced barista in central London? That was the wage on offer... after a full four-day, unpaid trial.

So, my friend and I decided not to buy coffee from this independent. Is this the way forward? Honestly, I don't know, but am keen to gain some feedback from readers, coffee drinkers, baristas, roasters, (whoever really) of this blog.

Milk Chemistry

2010-12-07T21:22:00.001Z

Great to see Morten Munchow make the effort to pop into Notes last week. Despite the trains being rather stationary, Morten took the time to come in just prior closing to inform a fellow barista and I or his research concerning milk chemistry in Denmark. Morten is doing some very interesting research, and has worked with the Nordic Barista Cup over previous years in evaluating milk steaming and how the constituents of milk influence cappuccino foam.

Interestingly, it appears protein content could be an important variable influencing foam consistency and dissipation (this is a huge simplification of his erudite research. I need to read more of Morten's research, and am posting this blog article to 'spread the word' so to speak). Interestingly, the prolific blogging machine and good friend Jespar has linked his blog to a Masters research thesis of similar note. Click here to assess that paper.

Meanwhile, in the UK today The Times newspaper published a feature on the burgeoning coffee scene in the UK. A link to this supplement can be found here.

Lastly, public thanks to James Hoffmann who has kindly lent me the Flament book on coffee chemistry.

One Strad Forward?

2010-11-20T20:30:00.001Z

Polarised opinion on the efficacy of pressure profiling for espresso exists. I've had the fortune of playing with the La Marzocco Strada for just over a week now, but nevertheless thought I would document my own (worthless) opinion.

David Schomer surmises that profiling is rather redundant. Nothing can be gained; only damage limitation regarding flavour to be obtained when profiling pressure. To me, after having read his material and attended his seminars, this is very contradictory. For someone to dismiss pressure profiling after a "just a few hours" in exploring down the pressure avenue, having spent decades in the endless search of improving quality with 'pseudo-scientific' aplomb (advocating for example rather rigorous pressure on tamping, exemplifying meticulous attention of environmental conditions , etc), Schomer simply throws the influence of pressure profiling on the scrapheap, a variable that adds only confusion and inconsistency.

Does he have a valid argument? Perhaps. I've pulled shots to guests at the cafe using two different profiles, yet maintaining the same dose, tamping technique and brewing temp. Notable differences were established, even to those that question the influence of profile on taste. Bringing such prominent changes in flavour from the same grind, dose and brew temp is something to take note of, albeit causing utter confusion to the aetiology of flavour change at the same time.

Interestingly, Dale Harris from HasBean was in earlier in the week and we discussed just what (as a collective) we concretely know regarding dose, temp, pressure profiling etc. The answer...not much! The factors of bean density, processing method, roasting style and elapsed time prior roast (etc) seemingly cause chaos to any attempt in draw cause and effect relationships. To then attribute changes in flavour to changes in our brewing pressure could therefore be erroneous. Moreover, one limitation of the Strada is that at Notes the machine is not programmable – profiles will vary shot to shot no matter how much focus one barista deploys. Perhaps this validates Schomer's opinion that pressure profiling brings nothing to the table regarding improving espresso. Or perhaps it undermines the commercial function of the machine.

Or perhaps we have yet to gain better understanding of how to utilise this new weapon in our arsenal. Pressure changes can influence flavour, but as the La Mazzocco Strada 'training' document illustrates, we don't know how. This doesn't mean the influence of pressure profiling is to be neglected, only that we need to double of efforts to understand and be open-minded to the possibilities of flavour change, which could well refute the rather solid foundations of what constitutes 'espresso' (30secs, 25-30ml, etc)

Schomer also comments about grinders briefly, and I concur that it is this facet of espresso extraction that really needs to be improved. A fellow barista and I worryingly conceited we are simply at the mercy of the grinder. Even in the Robur, a significant mass of ground coffee is contained in the throat.. We experimented with dosing approx 35% of the mass (circa 8g), settling and levelling, then dosing the remaining 65% (12g) using the single and double functions. The total dosed mass of coffee was very inconsistent (often inflicting grams of variation shot to shot), resulting in us ditching this dosing method in favour of a longer single dose. Thus, Schomer is right in acknowledging that grinders really need to be at the forefront of R&D if we are to make one Strad (sorry) forward in improving espresso quality and consistency.

Nevertheless, the influence of changing pressure is one not to be ignored. At Notes, we are in our infancy in exploring just what we can get out of some great coffees.

Notes Music Coffee

2010-11-15T22:01:00.001Z

.... finally I have internet access, and can start what I am sure will be many blog posts about being a coffee maker at the new venture in cenral London - namely Notes Music Coffee.

Some seriously good equipment (Strada, Uber boiler, Syphon, V60, Woodneck, Eva Solo, Aeropress and tasty loose-leaf tea's), married with staff that are friendly, open-minded and most importantly honest (we're all learning). And lets not forget the coffee; Square Mile Autumn Espresso in one grinder this week, Has Bean Kicker in tother. Calibrations done every morning on the Extract Mojo and log books of pressure profiles and tasting profiles kept too.

Check out the stores Twitter feed here, and co-owner Fabio's personal Twitter account here, barista Ben Drury's Twitter account (who doesn't) here and mine here.

Great to meet so many passionate coffee folk in the opening few days!

...more posts to come

,

Aeropress: At home

2010-11-03T15:29:00.000Z

I've been working on a 'new' brewing recipe for the Aeropress for home users (I say new, but I'm sure I've just knicked it from somewhere).

Anyhow, the reasoning behind this new protocol is that I currently have a really bad kettle. There is not much subtlety regarding the pour of water over the grounds; it kind of spurges out, like the vomit of a teenager after one too many. Extraction is unlikely to be even therefore (my rationale)

So, using the idea of Syphon brewing of pouring grounds into water and stirring, I tried the same with Aeropress. Pouring around 15:1g water:coffee on a grind setting similar to paper filter seems to work really nicely. Here is a step-by-step for you;

1. Heat kettle. Invert Aeropress stand and place inside drinking cup. Place filter into the filter-holder (for want of better word) and then into the inverted stand. Wet filter using the now boiled water, which nicely preheats the cup a little too. (see pic)

2.Weigh coffee. For me the ratio of 15:1 (water to coffee) manifests into 180g water and 12g coffee.

3. Invert Aeropress. Pour in 180g water.

4. Grind coffee using filter setting on grinder. Place grounds in water within the Aeropress and stir immediately for approx 10secs.

5. After 45s stir again for 5-10 seconds. Then, put filter cap on, invert and press for approx 30s to complete brewing process.

NB. I'm getting nice readings of between 1.2 - 1.5% concentration, and around 20% yield. It's tasting good too!

...let me know your thoughts.

West Australian Barista Champs - this weekend

2010-11-03T14:51:00.001Z

Well, a year ago I was in sunny Perth, majorly caffeinated in an attempt to offer my thoughts to competing baristi Jesper and Emmanuele (owner of the brilliant Ristretto Espresso, and one of the most passionate coffee folk you'll ever meet).

This weekend is the 2011 heat, and its great to see the event now in the town hall. Nevertheless, what would be even better is a live link to see some old friends in action, so if any Aussies down under have a link to live streaming then please get in touch.

Click here for more info on AASCA events.

The Quality of Coffee at the UK's Finest Restaurants

2010-11-03T14:38:00.000Z

On October 31st, The Sunday Times published a guide identifying the very best British restaurants, as voted for by 8000 customers, spanning nearly 100 000 reviews. Price per person at these fine dining establishments ranges from £50-200.

It is more my intution, although I have tried to research this, but the quality of coffee of served appears to be contradictory to everything else these restarants swear by. Stale, pre-ground, cheap and inexpensive coffees - and sold at heavily inflated prices (generally)

Recently in Stockholm, a fine-dining restaurant was offering guests a Syphon following the main course. This theathrical display, beautifully envelopes the sensory experience of what coffee can be. It also exhibits a fine example fo the recency effect (guests remembering what happened last in their dining experience)

Thus, leaving guests with a delicious, well-prepared coffee should be paramount, but it isn't. Instead, 'to make the medicine go down' chocolates often accompany coffees. What does this connote about the coffee? That it doesn't stand up on its on two-feet and merit evaluation? That the restaurant goes to extrodinary lengths to obtain and prepare fine food, yet brings in a cheap, bitter coffee?

...this is yet another huge niche in the market,

N.B: since Sunday, I have tried to contact many of the restaurants featured to ask them exactlty what coffee they serve, where they obtain it from and how is it brewed. Not one restaurant has go back to me. Dra
w your own conclusions

The Milk Challenge

2010-10-30T13:26:00.002+01:00

The milk challenge; simply yet difficult! Get a small portion of skimmed (aka trim, skinny, typically <.1% fat), semi-skimmed (approx 2% fat) and full-fat (3.5-4%) and heat to serving temp (55-65 degrees C)

Pour into small drinking vessels, and try to inhibit natural light from influencing judgement by consuming in a darkened place. Drink a little from each of the three blind. Guess which is which!

Its seems easy, but it really is tricky. Upon cooling, I have found the task to become a little easier, and this could be related to similar issues that have been widely discussed on other blogs concerning flavour change, sensory acuity and temperature.

...think it's time to book the Milk Chemistry course with London School of Coffee (ran by Morten Munchow).

Darker Roast = Ristretto Shot?

2010-10-13T22:23:00.000+01:00

I popped by to see Gwilym at Prufrock on Saturday with the intention of a quick espresso before heading to the newly opened Allpress roastery in Shoreditch. The latter never materialised, as I ended up pulling a few shots next to the champ and wailing away the afternoon..... and left rather inspired.

Gwilym and Jeremy at Prufrock were calibrating the Autumn Blend of Square Mile's using the Extract Mojo and iPad - with the latter being eye-candy to the tech-savvy, whetting the appetite and furthering the appreciation of what consists a well-crafted coffee. Roughly a dose of around 19g and 30g extraction was conducted, as I took note and heading back to the cafe in Ealing to work with the Mojo on Union Hand Roasted Revelation Blend (a dark roast).

Revelation is a tricky one to pull off as an espresso; yes there is praline, almond and dark choc, but there can be a smoky, burnt ash flavour to it that is rather unpleasant. There is very little acidity too.

On Tuesday this week I took a number of calculations to conjecture what a good dose and extraction weight would be in concordance with Extract Mojo. I say conjecture because I don't know the brewing temp - I'm waiting for a Scace to arrive before I know more (...if anyone in London has one please get in touch). I pulled 29-30.5g shots using 18.6-19.0g coffee on the KVW Mirage, and noted yields between 19-20% using the software.

One thing a colleague noted was that a 30g extraction was equivalent to around 2ounces in a shot glass, due to the nature of the crema. This led to a realisation of perhaps under-extraction / ristretto shots used as default. The next, and most important step, was to taste both a 30g and 20g (ristretto) using the dark roasted blend. To our palates, the ristretto was far superior - in terms of sweetness and body.

The implications of this I am not sure, and so I postulate that perhaps it's due to the roasting profile that a ristretto packs more pleasant flavour than the 'espresso'. I don't believe this to be the case with the Square Mile blend; at least an espresso is more well rounded and balanced.

....Perhaps until the Scace arrives and I run more thorough tests I will not know

Complaining

2010-09-25T13:32:00.000+01:00

This morning I went for a coffee in a nearby cafe. For the first time ever I had the courage / stupidity to complain about the coffee I was served. I recall a distant James Hoffman blog about encouraging people to complain if the coffee is dire - and this was the case.

Perhaps my flavour perception was biased by the barista performance I saw infront of me (after my money had changed hands); pre-ground coffee, a dirty basket from the previous extraction, an extremely low-dose, a slanted tamp resulting in a gushing shot. The result....well, you can guess.

And so I decided to complain. I hate complaining, but with James Hoffman's blog in the back of my mind I thought I would give it a go without trying to come across as some preponderant pretentious jerk (I even left some remnants of the double espresso rest for a few minutes and then indulged regrettably again, in light of James's most recent blog entry)

The outcome was my money back. That's ok, but it's not a solution to the greater problem, nor the reasoning behind my complaint. Just what happened to the feedback I gave to the manager (rather than bashful criticism) regarding the coffee is unknown. Would it get relayed to the barista? I doubt it. Would the barista be motivated to further their techniques if it were? I doubt it. My thinking is still somewhat blurred about how and when to give feedback / complain about coffee, and so I invite readers for their opinions.

A weekend in Stockholm

2010-09-20T07:57:00.000+01:00

My friend Jespar has blogged about our coffee ventures in Stockholm over the weekend. Some really interesting coffees during cupping on the Saturday night at Kura - feat a plethora of roasters, including Square Mile's Sweet Shop blend, which I didn't manage to try back home.

Jespar has done a great overview of the weekend, so I wont repeat what has already been mentioned. Nevertheless, travelling always provides a rich avenue of information into the diversity of how coffee can be brewed and presented to the consumer. More to come...

Sensory Analysis

2010-09-15T00:07:00.000+01:00

It's been too quiet on this blog recently, and there is a little backlog of things I want to wirte about, or at least wanted to write about before sleeping on the ideas, then ditching them.

Nevertheless, I would like to write about sensory science, and what I have learnt thus far from a post-grad course I am currently studying. So expect a few more blogs over the next few weeks, in addition to highlights from my visit to the Stockholm next week.... looking forward to some cupping at Kura

Caffe Freddo Sept Menu

2010-09-03T13:06:00.002+01:00

The three microlots from Union Roastery we are offering at Caffe Freddo this month: 1. Kenya AA Karimuki Mill – unsweetened pomegranate juice and apricot (really, delicious coffee – I've had a play with the refractometer and extractions around the 1.2 TDS / 19% yield have pronounced apricot, and subjectively my preference; 2. Rwanda Gashonga Bourbon – more subtle than the Kenyan, yet this African eludes a complexity with notes of grapefruit, sweet tobacco and red cherry; 3. Guatemala Cobahue – a new coffee Union have just brought in, and we're delighted to have it – cherry, praline, and a hint of vanilla.

2010-08-16T23:55:00.001+01:00

I'm sure there are many barista's out there would be interested in palate development, perhaps even leading to training to become a qualified judge at competitions.

Within a city such as London, I hope there is growing demand for a gathering of barista's to learn together about the flavour profiles and sensory analyses of coffee. If barista's could become trained panellists that could distinguish and characterise flavours, aromas and intensities across the board, then the standard would increase.

Analytical discrimination tests such as triangulation may not serve as the best method to do this. Rather, descriptive analyses could provide a way to provide comprehensive descriptions, elucidate differences and formulate specific sensory characteristics, whilst also educating and motivating barista's to further themselves whilst in the domains of the cafe. Training could focus on specific attributes found within espresso, for example, in an attempt to foster communal concordance about aroma, taste and trigeminal properties.

A criticism often levelled at this 'schooling' idea is that people's palates are different; some can detect certain bitter substances for example, whilst others have higher thresholds and therefore certain bitter tasting compounds go undetected. My riposte is that I believe barista's will enhance their knowledge, further their own palate and ultimately drive to bettering the coffees they produce on a daily basis. Furthermore, this education would mitigate the reliance on the small number of experts who may at any time be prone to bias, diminish the waxy lyrical pretentiousness we've all experienced, and evince professional development of the barista

The biggest problem may be the logistics; getting a group of baristas together and receiving training over a set period of time by a trained professional. I'd be keen to hear barista's thoughts on this.

West London

2010-08-10T16:46:00.001+01:00

West London is deserted regarding quality espresso bars. The East and Central London have a profound dominance on where to find a good coffee in the city.

Recently I've been working with Simon Peace, owner of Caffe Freddo in Ealing. Simon partook in the UK nationals earlier this year and has worked extremely hard to establish the cafe as the best in the local area for coffee.

We've work together to rebrand the cafe and establish an array of filter coffees, calibrated with the Extract Mojo refractomer and plan to offer AeroPress besides Hario drip in the very near future. Furthermore, we intend on exhibiting a range of guest espresso blends, and will regularly change the single-origin filter coffee offerings. At the moment we have three microlots from Union Roastery; Ethiopian Yirgacheffe: Koke Microlot, Costa Rica La Puente Tarrazu Micromill and Sulawesi Kalossi: Kud Sane Co-operative.

So, if you're in the area please pop in and say hi!

Collaborative Research

2010-07-28T11:22:00.000+01:00

David Walsh's recent blog has rightly attained meritorious praise in terms of diligence and intelligence for empirical exploration of spent grounds in various brewing devices.

David acknowledges the limits of n=1 trials, and thus we must be prudent and cautious in our generalisations. Nevertheless, one thing we can say is that we need much more of these experiments, as Nick Cho points out in the comments.

With the advent of the Extract Mojo refractometer and other portable, high-tech equipment there is no reason why there can not be an online collaborative research project(s), looking at various brews and methodologies. Recently at the SCAE annual conference London, the 18-22% extraction yield recommendations were discussed with a view to empirically examining the evidence on which these suggestions lie. Paul Stack and members from the SCAE were trying to finalise a methodology for ascertaining consumer preference for coffee, and this further highlights the need of science in understanding coffee, consumer preference and ultimately business.

Thus, if coffee roasters, baristas and prosumers could work together with the public on designing and running experiments, and being open to share results for statistical analyses, we could all benefit.

I will further these ideas in a later post, once I have had a little thinking time!

(Congratulations to David by the way; a great post)

Experimenting with the AeroPress and ExtractMojo; part 1

2010-07-24T09:24:00.003+01:00

I had a play with the ExtractMojo refractometer in trying to get consistent extractions with the AeroPress. Having been to quite a few cafes that offer non-espresso coffee I have often asked the barista for what brewing ratio they recommend and why. More often than not the barista evinces the taste to be best when brewed that specific way. That's the get-out-of-jail card response. The problems of a busy cafe persist, so that whilst that blueprint is rarely changed, consistency does remain a problem.

In the forthcoming months many cafes will join the revolution of experiencing coffees brewed in ways transcribed yesteryear! Spending time identifying some useful parameters is therefore necessary. I could also say that I spent time exploring certain variables on how they influence taste, and it would be sincere.

Method: Some common steps took place throughout all trials: preheating the AeroPress and cup; wetting the paper filter; weighing the beans both before and after grinding; stirring the brew after a set weight of water poured and stirring before plunging.

I manipulated the following variables one-by-way to ascertain some guidelines I could advocate to the public; brewing time, grind and inversion vs. traditional AeroPress. Brewing and plunge time were recorded, in addition to noting the grind setting on the Vario. Water at 94⁰C upon contact with grounds was conducting on all trials in this batch. Samples were taken for ExtractMojo readings, and I tasted the coffees prior to scrutinising them in front of Mr Mojo.

The goal was to attain a beverage with 1.25% concentration and 19% yield – both these figures fit nicely within the SCAE and SCAA recommendations for brewing.

So – what did I find? (Disclaimer – results need to be reproduced!).

A fairly fine grind, similar to that of stove-top, worked well. Hedge your grind slightly nearer espresso than filter but do accommodate the variables of method and brew time (see below)

Inverted method provides less TDS in the cup and less yield than Traditional method. Thus for inversion method grind a little finer to match traditional results. This makes sense; with inversion you are not pressing the brew through the 'puck', and thereby limiting the inherent danger of over-extracting those grinds, resulting in enhanced clarity. I personally preferred the Inverted method.

Brew time; 180 seconds works nicely – and I will try and be a little more precise with future trials. A consistent-pressurized plunge time of 40 seconds worked well.

For those without a refractometer a brewing ratio of 17g water to 1g grounds is advocated. Pour twice the weight of water to coffee at first and wait for bloom before stirring (for example: if 10g of coffee are used pour 20g of water first, then pour the remaining 150g over a one minute time-frame).

This is intended to be part one of the self-discovery guide to the AeroPress. These recommendations are open to criticism and modification. Further, reliability needs to be attained. Nevertheless, having perceived bitterness in the cup then obtaining data denoting over-extraction provides valuable feedback in may ways.

A little step-by-step process then;

Calibrate ExtractMojo. Enter preferences into the computer software and note weight of water required.

Preheat cup, preheat AeroPress and wet paper filter.

Boil filtered water (which reads 0.00 using the ExtractMojo)

Weigh beans and grind a little coarser than espresso. Weight ground beans.

INVERTED method is my preference: Transfer beans to AeroPress. Start the timer and simultaneously pour a small volume of water weighing twice the grounds ('pre-infusion'). Make sure all grounds are immersed by gentle stirring. Pour the remaining water (17g water: 1g grounds is recommended to obtain a 19% yield). Stir for 10secs after two minutes.

Insert wetted filter and cap. After 3mins brew rotate the AeroPress 180⁰. Plunge for around 40secs.

Follow ExtractMojo procedures to obtain a TDS score and yield reading using computer software. This takes a few minutes as the beverage has to cool. Thus a good idea is to transfer some of the beverage for analysis, leaving the majority to be enjoyed / evaluated before readings take place! Record sensory and objective data.

That's all for Part 1 folks.

The Cost of Being a Barista

2010-07-21T23:06:00.001+01:00

An interesting article in tonight's Evening Standard in London, whereby a mother of four, middle-aged cleaner who earned £6.95 p/hour (approx $11 AU, $15 NZ) was described as being paid below the poverty line.

The average income within the city is a reported £23+ p /hr. This is probably inclusive of the outliers who earn the mega-bucks, but it does make one face up to the harsh reality that vast majority of barista jobs are at or below £7 p/hr. This makes the earnings of a barista to be classed as poverty-stricken in London.

This article is not intended to criticize those owners who pay below or at the 'poverty line', but to highlight the difficulties faced by individuals who are seeking a career within the industry. How is £7 /hr (or less in many cases) a sustainable income for a barista with a family or mortgage? How is this wage attractive to future generations? How is the specialty coffee industry making sure that quality barista have a long-term future within the industry, and have weight to voice their opinions? Is the life of a barista really just a passing fad; a skill desired to be learnt over a short time to provide funds whilst studying or travelling overseas, then dumped in search for a career with more secure financial prospects? Is a barista acknowledged as a serious profession, from within the industry and outside (at this wage)? Should there a 'minimum barista' wage established to promote the specialty scene to intelligent individuals who show an interest in coffee? There are many questions, and perhaps we can stimulate discussion here.

(For those living overseas a guide to living costs in London; cost of renting one bedroom in a flat-share in London typically £500 – 600 per month, travel £100, food £100, taxes 20% of income)

UK: So much potential

2010-07-17T20:11:00.001+01:00

Outside of central and east London, you're more likely to see pigs fly than find great espresso (with a few exceptions). There are two ways to view this; as a coffee-drinker it's very frustrating and tantamount to throwing money down the drain in searching of something that isn't there. The upside are the large niche markets; vast untapped potential, that houses potential customers that are yet to differentiate between commodity and specialty, thereby viewing Costa as the epitome of quality coffee.

If anyone with an interest in setting up some espresso carts situated outside of London then I am all ears. I've just visited the delightful Cotswolds; afternoon cream teas are all the rage, ice-creams in every hand, pubs full of merry tourists, yet no quality coffee in sight. A mobile cart with good equipment could do extremely well. Perhaps a couple of grinders, with the addition of a non-espresso brew bar. Simplistic and unpretentious. Accessible yet distinguishable from the medley of crap coffee dominating the area.

Best Espresso Blend of 2010 Thus Far

2010-07-16T21:28:00.001+01:00

Yesterday provided a true culinary delight; a double ristretto of HasBean's Premium Espresso Blend at Tapped & Packed, London. Golden brown elixir! Sweet, buttery and complex, with refined notes that were not present when visiting nearby Fernandez & Wells; the flagship supplier of HasBean to the London public.

Truly great blend.

Edinburgh for a few days

2010-07-06T14:32:00.001+01:00

Had the pleasure of visiting Edinburgh for a few days this weekend. As has been reported in various forums, Artisan Roast and Jonathan Sharp's trio (Kilimanjaro, Wellington and Press) were the best the city had to offer. Had excellent, syrupy, butter-like, sweetness from the flagship Kilimanjaro on my first visit. Square Mile Spring Blend was so tasty. The consistency between Jonathan's three outlets was also praiseworthy. Plans are afoot to open a fourth cafe, Project, in a week or so, which is to featured a syphon brew-bar. After trialling offering the public drip coffees, JS has decided the aesthetical theatre in combination with flavour clarity could introduce the laymen to non-espresso in Scotland.

Artisan has recently moved their roaster to Glasgow, and are in the process of updating their roasting technology. Their espresso blend of 70% Sumatran and 30% Brazil provides a little too much earth, and not enough sweetness or acidic for my liking. Michael, the roaster, is a very pleasurable guy, who acknowledges that the coffee has to taste good with milk and be consistent throughout the year – and hence the blend. This is at odds perhaps with the 'seasonality' of coffees advocated by Geofff Watts and implemented by Square Mile. Nevertheless, what I enjoyed most about Artisan was the way the cafe was laid out; no counter, no till, no food fridge, just an inviting space to watch the barista at work as you open.

I was also recommended to Peter's Yard in Edinburgh. Having witnessed the barista at work for a few minutes, I noticed that they were not grinding on demand, and so discontinued my time in there. I am not aiming to be arrogant or conceited here, and understand the limitations of a busy cafe, but having perceived the actions of not grinding in demand, I believe this would taint any objective or fair appraisal; I would have known it could taste better, and would have left disappointed.

So, gold medal to Jonathan Sharp and colleagues, I personally preferred the ambience and layout of cafe Wellington in his portfolio. Back to London soonish

The Influence of Temperature on Taste

2010-07-06T14:06:00.001+01:00

Some really interesting discussion taking place at JimSeven at the moment, regarding the influence of temperature on taste and how a plethora of variables such as perception are intertwined to culminate in a taste profile.

I wish I could contribute to this discussion, but for now I can only regurgitate previous comments and opinions that focus on how the human palate developed.

Nevertheless, pH would provide an appealing avenue for future research. For example, as fruits age they oxidize, and become more acidic in pH, losing vitamins and minerals in the process. Perhaps the cooling of coffee is analogous to this, in regards to becoming more acidic. Different processing methods would again provide another independent variable to explore with this.

This whole pseudo-science / sensory analysis / food chemistry realm is something I am eager to learn more about, I am trying to raise funds for the only post-grad course in the UK that offers Sensory Science. So, perhaps in a few months (or years!) I can be of some benefit!

The WBC: Baristas and Magicians

2010-07-01T23:56:00.001+01:00

Last week I tried my best at assisting Matija, the Croatian Barista Champion, at the WBC. It gave me insight in to what is required during preparation for the competition.

Matija informs me Croatia has a scant, limited, specialty scene – hence trying to source beans roasted in Oslo, Norway, which are still yet to arrive as I write this blog a week after his performance. The lack of specialty coffee in Croatia has a knock-on effect; a lack of resources, a lack of a support team, a lack of all-round interest abet in growing frustrations for a talented, affable and knowledgeable barista such as Matija.

The WBC is more than a barista representing themselves. They are a representative of their country. Walking backstage lucidly highlighted the stark contrasts in resources competing countries; whereas the likes of Australia were able to bring numerable grinders, heavy equipment and kilos of coffee half way around the world, Matija had just 20 kilos to deliver a World Championship performance. Talk about working under a tight budget. Perhaps a magician would be a more fitting title than barista

I am empathetic to his situation. Though Matija never complained, it was conspicuous that perhaps this is not a level playing field. The result of Matija's personal blend not arriving in time is only further evidence of this.

I don't really know the solution to this problem. Croatia is not part of the EU, and so baristi are unable to jump on a plane and work overseas. Could the SCAE provide specialty roasters / baristas within Croatia additional funding for training / marketing etc? I do hope something can be done, but I don't know what.

I would like to end this blog with by congratulating Matija; staying so calm under pressure, and perhaps not attaining the recognition that many others did. Matija is a great barista, and it was a pleasure to (hopefully) help.

WBC Week

2010-06-29T12:30:00.001+01:00

Wow, what a week that was in London. Here's a brief itinerary of what went on during a rather hectic few days;

Monday: roastery tour at Monmouth coffee, during which time I bumped into the Japanese WBC team. Afterwards, headed north to the unique coffee haven that is Penny University. Tim Styles and none other than James Hoffman were behind the bar, delivering a lemon zesty Yirgacheffe. Michal Phillps and Charles Babinski of Intelligentsia also in store. In the late afternoon I visited a boutique roaster, namely Climpson & Sons, and enjoyed a nutty, praline reminiscent espresso. Monday evening: met with Croatian entrant Matija Hrkać to prepare for his WBC presentation.

Tuesday: preparation for Matija's performance, as well as an East London mini cafe crawl with team Croatia; Penny, Prufrock (home to 2009 champ Gwilym, with John Gordon and Mark Dundon in store) and Taylor St, then westwards to Dose. Stood around at Earl's Court station for a seemingly perennial period in hope of an Olympia train, in which time Heather Perry, many WBC Judges and team Mexico appeared! Met some great folks such as Steve Leighton a the Olympia, before whizzing off tothe official 'meet and greet' in Purl, Marylebone, conversing with many of the pillars of the coffee industry who I vehemently respect.

Wed: WBC day 1. Attendee at David Schomer seminar, which conjured an ambiguous concoction of up-to-the-date grinder research and archaic dosing and tamping styles , that lack scientific reasoning and credibility. David espouses a mix of culinary, theatrical artistry with scientific acumen, but what is art and what is objective science appears to be defined on his terms. For example, when questioned on his knock-tamping technique, David argued it was aesthetically more pleasing to the customer! Nevertheless, it's always worthwhile listening to what David has to stay, especially his insightful material relating to customer service. Watched the Latte Art Champs in the evening.

Thurs: Majita performance was earlier in the afternoon, and unfortunately his blend from an Oslo specialty roaster didn't arrive. The kind guys at the Coffee Collective donated to the cause, and Matija calmly performed, despite the significant impediment of not having his coffee! Met with Jespar, a friend and artisan barista from Sweden who I met in Perth, Australia (blog here) . After watching as many WBC performances as possible, I followed like the sheep that I am to the pub opposite the Olympia where a certain latte-art throwdown was taking place. James Hoffman, David Makin, James Philips (Dose), Carl Sara were just some of the royalty who partook.

Friday: Volunteered establishing the cupping protocol in the morning; this is not easy to organise! Interestingly, some of the coffees only differentiated by altitude; thus the same varietal, same micro-farm, same processing method in the cups! Distinguishing in the triangulation format thus requires a true sensory master. Afternoon was gladly spent watching the final 6 in the WBC compete, with team USA taking Gold. After-party was huge too.

Saturday: Monmouth in the morning, Kaffeine in the afternoon, in which team USA + Stephen Morrissey were tasting what as on offer. Sunday was a day of rest, before Fernandez and Wells (using HasBean blend) and Taylor St on the Monday morning. Grab a few beans from Monmouth on way to the station, which are providing comfort in the barren, desolate Midlands. Back to London soonish.

Thanks to the Reg Barber for the mean t-shirt too!

More subjective blogs to follow

Upcoming WBC/ SCAE Conference

2010-06-20T12:15:00.001+01:00

Really looking forward to the upcoming week in London. I'm about to head to the capital shortly, and am delighted to be Barista Buddy to Matija, the Croatian entrant (Thursday 1pm GMT for those watching online).

Also excited to be hooking up again with friends from Down Under, and look forward to meeting coffee enthusiasts from around the globe. I intend to write a blog each day, summarising my experiences of the SCAE conference and competitions, in addition to checking out the venerable cafes that have been mentioned in London.

Australian Barista Blog

2010-06-18T00:41:00.001+01:00

Spending time n Melbourne was an eye-opener in to the proliferation and expansion of non-espresso brewing. St Ali, Sensory Lab, Market Lane, Seven Seeds, Padre amongst others are all offering exemplary coffees in an array of brewing styles.

Back in 2008 I met Aaron, who at the time worked for Auction Rooms, and his brother Kris, who at the time pulled shots at St Ali. The brothers have recently started a blog that provides a expansive and objective overview of non-espresso brewing in Melbourne. Both still work as barista's in Melbourne.

Click here for their blog.

Best Before Dates

2010-06-18T00:28:00.000+01:00

An amusing concept to the world of coffee is the rather precise dates given by best before dates. Today I wandered through my home town, Worcester in England, trying to find freshly roasted beans. This was tricky. Eventually I found a national retailer who stipulated BB dates in June 2011! It's unfathomable that they can accurately specify what day next year the beans pass their 'best'.

Subsequently I asked when the beans were roasted, and was met with gazes of bewilderment and confusion. The stafff reiterated the best before date is what is important, and were totally perplexed as to when the coffee was roasted. No sale there then.

Going to visit a local roaster over the weekend, before heading down to London for the SCAE / WBC events. Things should therefore be on the up.

Padre Coffee in Melbourne

2010-06-12T02:16:00.000+01:00

A quick post of gratitude to Padre Coffee in Melbourne for putting on the informative and enjoyable Syphon and Cupping night. Marinus, James, Ken and Matt are all top guys, dedicated to furthering the consumers coffee knowledge in a friendly and amicable way. Good pizza too!

Melbourne: Day 1 and 2

2010-06-09T01:51:00.001+01:00

It's a year since I left Melbourne, and significant changes have occurred within the coffee scene here during my time away. Melbourne houses a progressive and yet expansive scene, which pushes boundaries and ultimately expectations. Non-espresso brews are gaining popularity, mirroring the States and the UK. Talking of the latter, current WBC champ Gwilym Davies was in town last week, but he had left by the time Monday morning came round, when I visited 3 Bags Full.

One thing that I have pick up on is that baristas are very willing to share their knowledge on where to go to find great coffee, once again drawing parallels to the 'Disloyalty Card' initiative in London. 3 Bags Full was followed on day one by First Pour cafe (Veneziano), Di Bella Warehouse roastery and Auction Rooms.

Day 2 was even better; single origin Yirgacheffe espresso and cold-drip provided by Cup Of Truth, followed by espresso and cupping at Market Lane; purveyors of quality green beans that have taken Australian coffee to a new level. Managed to time my trip perfectly to cup Brazilian, Kenyan and Columbian coffees here, whilst also talking at length to Jason (ex Monmouth) the roaster, in addition to roasting staff from the venerable Seven Seeds. Rumours of Scottie Callaghan's espresso blend were circulated too, but I'll keep the blend composition for Scottie to disclose at his leisure at the WBC.

Dukes Coffee Roasters in Windsor followed Market Lane, before a trip back into the city to check out the relatively new Sensory Lab; the single origin Rwandan was not golden elixir, but the service was welcoming, informative and friendly (on the contrary to others perceptions). The staff even allowed me to pull a few shots on the three-group Slayer. Surprisingly, no Extract Mojo refractometer resided here, providing somewhat contradiction to the 'empirical, objective scientific' demeanour connotated by the white laboratory coats modelled by staff.

Tomorrow (day 3) sees cupping at St Ali, before Dimattina, Dead Man Espresso and Proud Mary (home of the six-group!). Day 4 is cupping, cupping , cupping! Auction Rooms, Padre (Sydney Rd) and Seven Seeds have kindly invited me along.

Bean here... Ben there

2010-05-31T07:18:00.002+01:00

Two days in Auckland, and amidst getting drenched in torrential rain, and then spending sometime travelling Coromandel Peninsula, I've found time to explore the espresso scene here.

One company that has really stood out is 'Ben'; located in the heart of the CBD in Fort St, with its little sibling 'Little B' recently opening near K Road.

'Ben' roasts in-house during non-cafe hours, and offers excellent syphon brews (COE Columbian and PNG at my time of visit) in addition to utilizing the finesse of the Synesso to deliver espresso based beverages. Auckland coffee makers recently got together and published a 'where to' guide for the discerning public. I've been working my way through there thus far.

Some of the others I've frequented;
Espresso Workshop (obviously - single origin Salvadorian there)
Agnes Curran in Ponsonby
Akltezano Roasters in Newmarket
Kokako Roasters in Parnell (recommended by Ralph at Coffee Supreme / Customs)
Good One in Ponsonby
Atomic Roasters in Kingsland

...and a few not so good!

Recent trip to Coromandel resulted in an sublime espresso at Sola Cafe in Thames (just over an hour east of Auckland). Thanks to the NZ Coffee Guide for that one.

More posts to follow over the coming days....then off to Melbourne!

Less Is More?

2010-05-26T04:57:00.001+01:00

This post is the cumulative result of spending a little time within the hospitality industry and reading profusely about coffee.

Less is more. That is a mantra we (try to) preach when working behind a machine, trying to encourage espresso and black coffee beverages to be consumed, as opposed to milkshakes laced with a hint of coffee. Less is more when it comes to production; small, specialised micro-lots and single estates, nurturing Cup of Excellence coffees that provide so much pleasure.

Perhaps less is more in terms of coffee hospitality; small, dedicated cliques of coffee enthusiasts, hungry to know more, objectively questioning what has been taught, operating in a method analogous to job production in terms of meticulousness and attention to detail

Thus, is there a glass ceiling effect within the coffee hospitality industry? Can companies / cafes with a discerning and serious interest in coffee only reach a certain size, before 'selling out' and substituting quality for quantity? Perhaps the problem is that baristi want to work under a job production-like system, but there is a lack of customer demand, and so business must operate to maximise sales. This is an obstacle the industry has to overcome. The wine and to some extent chocolate industries have been specialised and stratified, allowing for a differentiation of supply for a differentiation in demand. Has coffee?

Regarding New Zealand, I don't think so. Espresso rules in New Zealand, and it will be an uphill struggle for all to incorporate other brewing methods successfully. With its long and successful cafe culture and small population, intertwined with patron preference for a particular roaster and not brewing method, it's hard to see New Zealand not stagnating. I really hope the likes of Customs Brew Bar succeed in introducing people to coffee...pics to follow

Latte Art Throwdown @ Memphis Belle Cafe; 14/05/2010

2010-05-16T07:33:00.002+01:00

Friday night saw the inaugural Latte Art comp at Memphis Belle Cafe in Wellington. House baristas Nick Clark (who claimed silver in the recent Wellington barista comp) and Bink Bowler took first place alongside visiting Espresso Workshop and New Zealand representative for the forthcoming WBC David Huang. David donated the $100 prize to charity. Top bloke!

Was a rather interesting night, below are a few photos, including Matt from Espresso Ninja attempting a blind folded entry!

Wellington Food Show

2010-05-15T06:48:00.001+01:00

Wellington has its annual food show on at the moment, and having the day off work I decided to have a browse.

One thing that struck me was the abundance of coffee pods and pod brewing machines; they were ubiquitous, with many companies 'specialising' in machines solely developed to brew coffee pods.

I met a sales representative from Nespresso, and tried three 'espressos' that gushed out (programmed 40ml extractions in roughly 15secs). Nestle must really be hitting the jackpot here; 5-7g of ground, cheap coffee, packed into a pod, sealed with a kiss and sold for roughly $1 each (that works out to be roughly $200 / kilo!). The machines they have developed astoundingly provide 19 bar pressure (yes, that is 19, not 9) to produce a pale, bubbly crema redolent of bad under-extracted espressos.

This leads me on to using ground coffee. I walked around the arena and witnessed two coffee companies using coffee falling from a chamber full of ground coffee. Thus, is the consumer getting to try exquisite coffee? I overheard a few folk mention their Nespresso coffees were very much reminiscent of coffee they are served in cafes; perhaps they are.

Subsequently, I just wonder that those that work within the industry that promote grinding on demand and freshness as pillars to build upon, yet complacently grind beans for those without a home grinder, can critique about pods, especially if retailing in paper bags.

Everything but Espresso - Scott Rao

2010-05-15T06:08:00.001+01:00

My good friends over in Western Australia, Ristretto Espresso recently informed me of Scott Rao's latest book – 'Everything but Espresso'. Fortunately I've been able to grab myself a copy and have had a quick glance.

Rao has a meritorious way of writing style; he writes eruditely and scientifically, yet accessible for the laymen or beginner with a thirst to know more. The book provides great insight into the theory of brewing charts, and breaks down the anomalies and variables influencing the brew. I'm sure this book will be added to his first in becoming 'musts' for the dedicated barista.

One thing that particularly struck me was that I need to start saving for a MojoExtract, the coffee-specific refractometer designed by Vince Fedele, or at least a decent TDS meter, in order to gain a more objective view of brewing. Rao points out that this objective glance at which to look at coffee is in no way to replace traditional taste tasting, but instead to harmonize all sources of information so that the barista can learn holistically and accrue valuable information from feedback that is attained.

Another topic Rao advocates is that of using a millilitre to coffee grounds ratio when brewing coffee (for example, using 17ml per gram of ground coffee, as opposed to stating 60g: 1l). Since brewing coffees at home for a few months now, I have to agree with this expression of water to grounds. As a result of knowing how much coffee I have permits an easy calculation into volume of water required, and is easier for the beginner to understand.

The book provides excellent information on getting the best from French press, siphon, Chemex and pour-over methods, in addition to establishing facts about water chemistry and bean storage (neglected variables as Rao expresses).

With the SCAA recently affirming the comeback of non-espresso brewing into the specialty domain, and with the likes of Penny University on the horizon in London, Rao has released this book on the crest of a wave that will no doubt gain him veneration on a global scale.

New Zealand Wine Centre, Napier

2010-05-06T10:33:00.003+01:00

Another highlight of the recent trip north was visiting the national Wine Centre in Napier.

The Centre boasts an impressive Aroma Awareness room; 100's of aromas taken from 'le Nez du Vin' and presented to the public in an exemplary, elegant fashion. What becomes lucidly clear is the overlap between wine and coffee in terms of aroma, especially those in red wines.

Interestingly there was an aroma for 'Coffee', which smelt the same as that as 'Roasted Coffee' in the 'le Nez du Cafe'. This is of no great surprise, although I do question the rather reductionist move of including a coffee scent, considering the same company sell a 36-scent coffee aroma kit!

Nevertheless, contrasting two wines from the same grape varietal can be just as beneficial for palate development as comparing two coffees, or two whiskeys or two beers for that matter. The Centre in Napier runs regular tasting sessions, and provides a plethora of information to the public. Here's a few photos

Adoro Cafe, Napier, NZ

2010-05-06T10:00:00.002+01:00

I had the pleasure of few days off recently, and decided to venture North of Wellington to Hawke's Bay. After a night in Napier, the major town of the region, I hit the streets in search of a morning espresso and found Adoro Cafe, home to a 2-group Fiorenzato Piazza San Marco lever machine. Aesthetically beautiful, the machine turned my morbid drunkenness into ebullience as I watched a few shots pour.

Unfortunately, my camera was left in the hostel, so I tried, albeit ineptly, to capture the scenes on my mobile phone ('tried' being a euphemism for failed).

Great little cafe, well worth the visit, tucked away in one of New Zealand's most scenic towns.

Coming Home

2010-04-29T11:20:00.001+01:00

Having spent two and half of the last three years in Australia and New Zealand, I have decided to head home, just in time for the WBC. I'm really exicted and somewhat apprehensive about moving to and working in London, but the coffee scene is burgeoning, and what my sources are telling me in NZ, is really pushing the boundaries.

I'll be surmising my times in NZ in later posts; the experiences, the coffees, and obviously the great people I have met here. Related to the latter point, I had the pleasure of meeting Tom, designer of the Uk coffee website Cosy Coffee Shops, in Wellington this week. Tom took a few snaps for his site of Customs Brew Bar in Wellington, and it was very interesting to hear his take on the changing social and cultural dynamics enveloping the UK.

So, to all the UK readers of this blog, I look forward to meeting you in the near future. Feel free to get in contact, I'll be in London just prior to the WBC.

Cupping Coffee Supreme and Monmouth Coffees

2010-04-20T12:04:00.001+01:00

Last week I had the pleasure of cupping at Wellington's ineffable coffee haven, Customs Brew Bar, ran by Coffee Supreme. Supreme recently got their hands on some coffees roasted by Monmouth in London, and it was interesting to see the influence of roast on the similar crops of Ethiopian Sidamo.

New Zealand's coffee culture is at the moment one-dimensional; espresso, espresso, espresso. To elaborate further, I wish to clarify that although a significant percentage drink black coffees, to the majority a flat white or latte is synonymous with the word coffee. Drip, plunger, Chemex, Aeropress, even stove top are comparitvely dead end streets. The cumulative result of this is darker roasted coffees , especially in comparison to Monmouth; UK roasters that focus on single origin coffees brewed as drip or plunger.

Personally, I preferred the more intense acidity and fruity notes abundant in Monmouth’s roasting profile, but I can understand why both roasters decided on their respective profiles.

One of the ramifications from the night of cupping was that the style of roast leads itself to a certain brewing method, and this is far from clear in the eyes of the laymen coffee drinker, or even trainee coffee maker. This was exemplified in a recent conversation with Carl Sara, four time NZ barista champ, in which we discussed why a barista competitor in the recent Auckland heat was using a dark roasted Kenyan ( a bean prized for acidity, which is obliterated during darker roasts).

Signature Drinks

2010-04-20T11:37:00.001+01:00

Think Starbucks, and what comes to mind? To me, connotations of dark roasted coffee bombarded with a flood of syrups, creams, milk, sugar, and the alike, fostering subsequent visions of obesity and morbidity. The specialty coffee industry scoffs, and diligently concentrates on an ethos of less is more (...'more often', to quote a tagline from a venerable US coffee company)

Now, think signature drinks, think barista competitions. What comes to mind. What are the predominant ingredients used? Sugars, honey, cream, butter, and many more unhealthy ingredients. Although the beverage is espresso focused, are baristi being hypocritical in the sweet, calorie infested concoctions they design and produce?

It's an issue which has intrigued me for a little while, namely that of trying to produce healthy beverages that tasty. There is no criteria as yet in scoring marks for dietary elements to the signature drink, but perhaps this is an avenue for further exploration.

I am not advocating the use of skimmed / skinny / trim milk over full fat, or condeming baristi for using high calorie, fatty, sugary foods, but I think the issue of healthy, propotioned drinks is something we as an industy need to acknowledge. This I guess follows on from my recent post about serving drinks far outside the traditional espresso: milk ratio as used in Italy.

NZBC Finals This Saturday

2010-04-16T10:37:00.001+01:00

Well, we're down to seven in the search for the Kiwi representative for the coveted World Barista Title. Having been to all three regional finals I think the technical standard will be very high, with two or three really pushing the boundaries regarding creativity in the signature drink.

My boss, Matt Troughton, is one of the final seven. He was worked meticulously to perfect his technique, changing distribution and dosing methods along the way, and I am hoping it will pay dividends. I think regardless of who wins on Saturday, each barista will have learnt many beneficial skills in their preparation.

Uncertainty certainly (excellent English!) surrounds the validity of the barista comp in my eyes. It is not a fair reflection of busy cafe life, nor does the signature drink seem to be a beverage that can be replicated in one way or another within the cafe. But what is the solution? I honestly don't know.

Those who have this Saturday off (that's right, I don't) have a feast off barista titillation; the NZBC ad USBC / SCAA conference are all being streamed online. Go to http://www.livestream.com/nzbc and http://www.justin.tv/usbcscaa#r=pLdtwfM~ for respective links.

Ratio of Milk to Espresso

2010-04-02T01:19:00.000+01:00

When does a cappucino stop being a cappucino and become more deserving of the title tepid milkshake?

An annoyance shared by many baristi is customers ordering grande's / large beverages. A ratio of around 5:1 milk:espresso is served to judges in barista competition, and this ratio pertains in most cafe's when customers order a coffee beverage.

However, those ratio's get distorted when a large coffee is produced. A 400ml beverage typically contains 30ml espresso (12:1 ratio). Does this beverage deserve the title cappucino? What would the Italian grandfathers of espresso culture have to say about this warmed milk concoction with the slight coffee taint have to say?

Should coffee beverages be legitimised so that the ratio of 5:1 remains, in a similar way to what bakers in Western Austrlia are trying to accomplish with their sourdough recipes? Click here for more on that.

If we, the coffee industry that is, are going to produce large beverages, thereby contradicting the less-is-more philosophy, then should we acknowledge the history of the drinks we serve and preserve the ratio's to which constituted the name? If so, we would have to rename those large beverages.

I know there are one or two cafe's in London now which refuse to sell grande drinks. Perhaps this is an avenue worth considering if your business model is focused on producing high quality coffee. It certainly filters out the market that want sugary, milky, 'What is the biggest coffee size you serve' customers.

Reservoir Dogs in the Cafe

2010-04-02T00:49:00.000+01:00

Espresso Workshop, ran by award winnning barista David Huang and roaster Andrew Smart, in Epsom, Auckland was where I had the best espresso experience in my short stay in the 'big city'.

The cafe houses two blends; one for black coffees and one for white. At the time of visiting, the current black blend (normally called 'Mr Black) was a blend of three fair trade, orgainic coffees, and therefore entitled Mr Green. Espresso Workshop white blend ('Mr White') showcases a bigger body and more earthy tones, similar to that found in a large proportion of coffee establishments in Wellington.

So, Mr Black, Mr White and now Mr Green...it's all very Reservoir Dogs. The decision to house two blends, one for white and one for black was something I first encountered when I visited the superb Bar Nine, in Adelaide, Australia. Barista and cafe owner Ian Callaghan is well renowned in the Australian scene, and in addition to espresso offers siphon, French press, Turkish and Vietnemese, amongst others.

Here's a few photos of Espresso Workshop anyhow

The Coffee Birthplace of Gwilym Davies

2010-03-30T10:30:00.000+01:00

121Ponsonby Road, Auckland, New Zealand is where it all started for current world barista champion Gwilym Davies. On Saturday I had the pleasure of visiting the cafe, which has since changed ownership, and took one or two photos.

Gwilym used to work there when Atomic Coffee operated at the site. Atomic have since relocated, but 121 Ponsonby Road has remained a cafe - called 'One-2-One'. Inventive; I think not.

I also took a photo of a window advert for a skilled barista, which made me chuckle, though I am not really sure why. Nevertheless, upon entering the cafe I asked a couple of the staff if they could recall Gwilym or the previous roaster Euan, but unfortunately nobody seemed aware of who either was. So... no coffee for me here. Seems hard to comprehend why the cafe doesn't advertise the fact that this was the ground where the current barista champ learnt his trade, and perhaps even more obstuse that the baristas working there were completely oblivious to who Gwilym was, especially considering the Kiwi's in London consider Gwilym a product of their espresso culture.

One-2-One had some vintage retro coffee paraphernalia though - which my inept photography skills fail to portray.

The Coffee Maker and the Barista

2010-03-29T10:34:00.001+01:00

I've alluded to this briefly in a previous post, and after attending all three barista heats in New Zealand, the opinions I earlier expressed regarding coffee makers and barista are only further vindicated. I have watched 60 entrants over the previous month and whilst all may demonstrate proficient prestidigitation and skill in a cafe setting, differences emerge that separate barista from coffee maker whent he stakes are upped and extrapolated to a regional / national competition.

These differences manifest themselves in various ways; the justification and description of bean / blend, the reasoning behind roasting the bean that way, the coffee knowledge that is prevalent (or lacking)s, the consistency in technique, the use of signature which adds dimension to the essential espresso, the boundaries pushed in creativity...these are many ways that a true barista differentiate themselves from coffee makers. These differences all perspire from passion, a thirst to know more, and a personality which embraces feedback, positive criticism and information which may contradict their current knowledge

Regarding the latest competition, held in Auckland yesterday, I was extremely impressed with the knowledge and dedication of David Huang, part owner of Espresso Workshop. I'll write a blog dedicated to that establishment soon, but suffice to say David knows coffee and hospitality, and is a deserved winner of the Auckland heat.

Surprisingly, many of the 23 Auckland competitors went overtime, to the extent that they were disqualified due to their time management problems.

The national final takes place in three weeks in Auckland, on Sat April 17, and are planned to be streamed online for those of you reading this blog overseas.

Photos from the heats on the way too...

Auckland Barista Comp

2010-03-25T05:22:00.001Z

Heading up to Auckland this weekend. A few things planned; visiting some of the roasteries (All Press, Atomic and Altura – and that is just the 'A's') as well as attending the Auckland barista comp on Sunday.

I helped out at the Wellington regional heat, which was one by Matt Troughton of Mojo Coffee. Well done to Matt, his diligence and dedication were abundant for all to see.

More posts to flow next week, alongside photo's (including where the magic initiated for a certain Gwilym Davies)

Cheers

le Nez du Cafe

2010-03-12T00:46:00.000Z

A few weeks back Customs Brew Bar (Coffee Supreme) kindly lent me the 'le Nez du Cafe'. I had been trying to get hold of one of these, but was a little put off due to the shipping costs from Europe. So I approached a few of the roasters here in Wellington to see if they would sell an older kit, or I could purchase a new one of them.

Coffee Supreme appear to be the roasters that have one, which attests their pedigree as dedicated coffee professionals. (I did read somewhere that roasters should have one in-house, and replace the kit every two or so years as the scents tire and change). Coffee Supreme even lent me the kit free of charge.

There is a little debate within the coffe world as to the use of this kit, but personally I like it. Trying to build a reference lexicon of smells and tastes is a feat I am trying to accomplish, and I think that together with compartively drinking coffee (comparing two coffees at a time) and by cupping, my palate is slowly improving. However, the kit is not cheap, and one could argue that you can easily build your own kit at a fraction of the cost. The attached book however is rather informative.

Here are a few pics anyhow.

If your in Wellington and like to give the kit a sniff or two then head to Custom's Brew Bar.

Bean: Pomeroy's Coffee & Tea Co, Nelson, NZ.

2010-03-12T00:16:00.000Z

Prior to attending the first regional barista comp last weekend, I flew west of Wellington to the sunny town of Nelson. Nelson typifies the passion for coffee that is abundant in New Zealand; a small town with a small population, yet a handful of passionate and roasters serving a competitive cafe market.

Having only a day or two to visit the place, I tried to squeeze in as much coffee as a could by predominately visiting roasteries, with Pomeroy's being my first port of call.

Although no longer their roastery premises (recent expansion has seen the company roast in a more industrial away from the town) I was informed that small roasts do occur here. Besides excellent customer service, the roastery cafe houses all the coffee and tea paraphenalia one could desire (check out the Charlie Chaplin espresso cups below).

Espresso served was far better than the rather repugnant Fuel espresso at Wellington airport, but still lacked the life and harmonious balance that would greet my palate whilst in Christchurch a few days later.

Great place to visit for the coffee (or tea) snob if in the area.

Sample Roasters - Where Art Thou?

2010-03-10T08:28:00.000Z

An interesting, intriguing and quite worrysome observation was expressed to me recently, namely that roasters (in New Zealand) are generally short on having sample roasters. Are the roasteries without such necesary equipement trying their beans and blends before purchasing, roasting and retailing them (rhetorical q)?

Perhaps it's one way of seperating those with a genuine and sincere appreciation of coffee from those with a more business centered acumen (to put in kindly)

New Zealand Barista Championship: Christchurch Regional

2010-03-10T08:16:00.001Z

Saturday saw the initiation of this year’s Barista Championship in New Zealand. First regional heat was conducting in Christchurch, the biggest city in the south island of New Zealand.

Luciano Marcolino from Luciano Espresso (aptly named!) and Hideyuki Kono, the prodigy of Carl Sara at Crafted Coffee Company took the two respective entry tickets to the national final, set in Auckland in mid April.

Crafted Coffee roasted the beans of first, second, and fourth place, in addition to supplying the green beans for those placed fifth and seventh. An all round good day for the newly formed company (more on Crafted in a latter post)

Luciano used a single origin Ethiopian Guji, which I was fortunate to try the following morning at his cafe just south of the city and at Crafted. Interestingly his beans were roasted by the Hide, who finished second.

I managed to get a close up of Luciano's grinder which rather intrigued me with the precision of a .001s grinding timer....

Luciano also decided to change his dose for the cappuccino, conspiculously decreasing the dose to get 'more body' in his words. I talked to a few experts in the NZ coffee scene about this, and most were a little perplexed. Why not just extract for slightly longer? And, does decreasing the dose result in more body? Less coffee mass should result in higher solids yield from the coffee grinds, but does that equate to increased body in comparison to a shot made from more coffee mass? The scientific side of espresso extraction is something of a paradox; it interests and simultaneously frustrates, fostering a plethora of questions but innocent of many answers! Nevertheless, the judges obviously enjoyed Luciano's presentation, and he will be a favourite to represent the country for a third time in London come June.

Surprisingly five entrants used over-sized cappuccino cups, and were therefore immediately disqualified. I'd like to talk about beverage size in another post, so won't elaborate on that point just yet. Still, a great waste of time, money and energy for those concerned.

Nevertheless, the three best candidates in my humble opinion took the top three slots and would all serve as great representative's of NZ at the WBC

Upcoming Blogs

2010-03-08T10:07:00.001Z

Just returned to Wellington after a stunning few days in Nelson and Christchurch. I attended the Christchurch regional New Zealand Barista Comp on the Saturday, and went to a host of roasteries and cafe's in the two cities. I endeavour to publish a few blogs, including photos, over the next few days.

Future of Barista Competitions?

2010-02-28T07:58:00.001Z

Just a quick post tonight, one that has spawned from a recent preference of mine for drip and plunger coffee over espresso.

The World Barista Champs are espresso, espresso, and espresso focused. Its theatrics, its fireworks, it's entertaining (to some!) as baristi present beverages under the circus of spotlights, judges and video cameras. But is the title of being 'Barista Champion' fitting? Should it be renamed 'Espresso Champion'?

Perhaps in the future the Barista championships will allow baristi to prepare and brew coffees using various techniques. Espresso is all fine and dandy, but there is an inherent danger the industry faces; espresso and coffee being synonymous to the consumer, rendering other brewing styles inferior and redundant. I believe the competitions need to recognise and embrace other brewing methods into the format of competition, especially as plunger and drip coffees are far more accessible and permissible to the consumer.

Decaf for the Comps?

2010-02-24T05:35:00.000Z

Barista competitions are upcoming both here in New Zealand and in my native UK over the coming weeks (I'm attending all three in NZ, and will take photo's for those interested). Now, I made sound like a complete novice but I was contemplating whether any / more competitors would use decaf beans in their blends?

I haven't tried enough decaf coffee to get a fair representation of the taste one can expect, but by eliminating caffeine, a truly bitter element present in coffee, could one add sweetness or acidity to their blends? I haven't re-read the Illy and Viani section on decaf coffee in 'Espresso Coffee' prior to posting this, so perhaps I am jumping the gun with my curiousity. Perhaps, with decaf you lose a lot more than just caffeine in the sensory experience. It's a topic that got my mind thinking anyhow.

Wow...readership. (re Pre-ground Coffee)

2010-02-21T07:32:00.003Z

Thanks to all those who commented on the recent Trading Fair / Coffee Prostitution article.

What delight I had when browsing through the list of blogs I subscribe to, to see this blog alluded to on Steve Leighton's Has Been website. Steve; if you're reading this you certainly made my day! Click here for further info. Fantastic stuff.

So, to the issue of preground coffee. Small steps up the mountain that is coffee enlightenment, or are we (the coffee industry that is) taking consumers for a ride nowhere. It's a great debate, and there are arguments for and against pre-ground, such as the consumer having no grinder.

Nevertheless, if we view pre-ground as analogous to food that has exceeded a best before (or even use by) date, than it is tantamount to selling a product of inferior standards.

Of course, the practical thing to discuss is the solution to getting more people to enjoy coffee and purchasing whole beans. The article I wrote is simply a more aggressive standpoint in approaching to answer this rather difficult situation. Instead of appeasing to every customers need (i.e. wanting to purchase pre-ground) we politely refuse and say that our high standards dedicate that only whole beans are sold. Subsequently, some consumers will be put off and will go else where to purchase their stale coffee. But, a proportion, and with time a growing proportion, will recognise, understand and affiliate with your brand / cafe and associate quality, integrity, passion and expertise with your coffee. Refusing to sell pre-ground coffee also, ironically, gives a coffee retailer a point of difference.

I recall James Hoffman contemplating whether it was time the industry revved up it's argument against the likes of instant, pre-ground, pods, capsules etc a while back in his erudite blog. I can only reiterate his sentiments; perhaps it is. Honestly, I don't know. But if coffee has taught us one thing, it is not to be dismissive, not to rule out ideas (for e.g. simple because people don't have grinders it is permissive to sell pre-ground). Opportunities arise from these difficult scenarios the coffee world finds itself in, and perhaps we need to be more assertive if we are to get quality coffees (such as Has Been) into more homes and cafes.

Really appreciate your comments and your readership!

Integrated Scales

2010-02-20T07:15:00.004Z

I was at work today contemplating how espresso machines could be developed to improve quality and consistency. An idea came to me, that perhaps has been documented elsewhere, but I am unsure.

The idea is as follows; integrated scales directly under each group that would weight each shot. The barista could tare the weight of the cup / glass, and software could be linked to the machine which logs each shots weight.

Here are a few pics I took at work this morning with my phone (disclaimer: the resolution is not great, but I hope you get the jist)

There are many advantages to an espresso machine that incorporates scales; firstly due to constant feedback ones technique becomes polished and more consistent; secondly the technology would offer propitious areas to research areas that would prosper with a little science (for e.g. of the influence of timeafter roasting on shot weight and how this impacts crema, taste, etc); thirdly it provides a useful educational tool for new and seasoned baristi.

One aspect that surprised me when using a scale with the Faema E61 was that the volume and weight have no great concordance rate. A shot using freshly ground coffee was yielding a volume of over 50ml, yet weighing approx 30g. This only serves to evidence the point I made in the last paragraph, about how scales would be a great educational device if they were in-built under each group head. Having additional information such as shot weight can only aid the barista and consumer search for fine espresso.

The whole aspect of integrating scales and software got me laterally thinking towards how baristi can further their knowledge by incorporating science. If a doser grinder which integrates a scale to measure dry grounds could be linked to software, a wealth of data pertaining to the weight of dry grounds, fineness of grind, extraction time, brew temp, pressure during extraction and shot weight could all be logged and analysed in addition to sensory scrutiny.

Comments welcome, as always!

Trading Fairly and Coffee Prostitution!

2010-02-15T10:24:00.003Z

The Wellington coffee scene is awash with roasters here, there and everywhere. The cafe culture is equally healthy; vibrant and competitive, with local patrons affirming themselves as diligent and discerning. Nevertheless, until the recent arrival of the Coffee Supreme's Customs Brew Bar the ethos surrounding brewing coffee (including espresso) coffee appeared stagnant; little appears to have changed over the past four or five years.

There are a handful of local roasters which every Wellingtonian is familiar with. Each of these roasters markets a Fair Trade blend, with one roaster being 100% Fair Trade.

Those that have read 'God In A Cup' by Michele Weissman or familiar to the bloggings of Geoff Watts and Stephen Leighton will know the pit-falls of Fair Trade. I will not elaborate on them here, just encourage readers to research this segment of the industry for themselves and come up with their own opinions.

What would be encouraging for me to see is for just one of the roasters in Wellington to take a public stance of not retailing Fair Trade, in a way similar to that of Stumptown or Intelligensia in the States. If a roaster were to do this, as opposed to producing a concessional Fair Trade Blend just for the sake of appeasing those who 'only buy Fair Trade', then it would imply a coffee company serious about specialty, relationship coffee in the long term. It takes guts for a company to publicly state disapproval concerning Fair Trade, but nothing should sacrifice integrity in the cup. It also offers ground for a roaster to explicate why they don't use FT, and offer rudimentary ways to educate the public.

At present times, I believe all coffee roasters in Wellington produce Fair Trade blends, and happily take money from these blends, and then ponder ways forward to increase revenue. Producing FT blends when you are not primarily FT orientated is trying too hard to appease everyone; it's contradiicting one's own values and thus in the end self-harming.

As coffee professionals, you are either pro FT or against, and subsequently view FT as a marketing gimmick. Why shouldn't roasters reflect this ethos in the coffee they produce? Well, I guess money talks.The customer is always right, isn't he?

Of similar note is the commercial grinding of beans for domestic use. I was delighted to read Square Mile only retail whole beans. As an industry, I think we need to start practicing what we preach; refuse to sell ground coffee to the public in all forms. We wouldn't dare to prepare an espresso for guests at our cafe's using pre-ground coffee so why is it suddenly acceptable to sell pre-ground for domestic use? How much respect do you have for your coffee if you are the retailer and willing to take money for it? I'll dub it coffee prostitution; selling your integrity for a little money!

Feel free to air your thoughts

Kudos to the Boss

2010-02-08T09:53:00.000Z

Those that havn't heard of FourSquare should really spend the next hour or two reading about it online, and how it can be applied to one's business.

My boss at work has recently received international acclaim with his extrapolation of the internet software into our cafe (Mojo Old Bank). Click here for more

So congrats to Matt! (http://twitter.com/MojoOldBank)

On The Road Again

2010-02-08T09:09:00.000Z

New Zealand's regional barista comps take place during March in the three big cities; Christchurch, Wellington and Auckland. I've decided to do some prep work for future comps by going ahead to visit all three.

Obviously, I'll be stopping off along the way at various towns and documenting the coffee, hopefully with pics and perhaps some interviews, so keep your ears pierced!

Sat March 6 I'll be down South in Christchurch, before witnessing a few friends and work collegues perform at the iconic L'Affare in Wellington on Sunday 21 March. The following weekend I'll be in Auckland for the first time, where apparently patrons prefer a slightly more 'stronger' coffee (Robusta infused blends is what I have my sources telling me).

Anyhow, really looking forward to seeing some more of the country, tasting great coffees, and meeting fellow coffee enthusiasts!

Developing the Palate

2010-02-08T08:59:00.000Z

I'm following James Hoffman's guide to palate development at the moment. Brewing two coffees in a drip filter way, and subsequently comparing and evaluating the two as they steep, brew and cool.

First up is the Sumantran Mandheling and Kenyan AA Nduma, both purchased from Customs Brew Bar (which is owned by Coffee Supreme).

The idea is to document and reference for memory two origins. I asked for two contrasting coffees - and certainly got that!

The Kenyan is a beautiful, aromatic and delicate coffee. Great, great acidity - offering a tingly sensation I really look for in a coffee. I also detect smoky undertones, alongside milk chocolate and vanilla notes (thanks to the Le Nez du Cafe).

Contrasting this is the Sumatran. Here I scent and taste earthy, almost leathery goodness, with a dark chocolate finish that sustains for a pleasingly long time. This coffee has greater body, but for me lacks the fruity complexity of the Kenyan.

Really enjoying the sensory kit by the way; the book that comes is a very useful reference too.

Customs Brew Bar by Coffee Supreme – It’s Supreme!

2010-02-03T08:54:00.003Z

Just a quick thank you and expression of gratitude to Coffee Supreme, Wellington, and in particular the guys at Customs Brew Bar. They have lent me the Le Nez du Cafe, the sensory training kit that incorporates 36 aromas found in coffee. I'm having some good fun with it at the moment.

In addition to producing fabulous single origin espresso using the omnipotent Slayer, Customs are incorporating additional brew methods using a Clover machine and pour overs using a Chemex and gold filter. I'm going to give a more elaborate review shortly of the coffees on offer (comparing the great array of single origins , hopefully using coffee adjectives from the kit!).

Put succinctly, the best place in Wellington for all things coffee! Corner of Cuba St and Ghuznee for those in the vicinity.

The Psychology of the Barista Talk at Championships

2010-02-02T12:59:00.002Z

I've been busy with work lately, and in my spare time last weekend was glued to the Aussie Barista Champs online, in addition to finishing reading material pertaining to consumer psychology. The cumulative effect of the three got me thinking, and this post relates to one of those matters; namely the influence of your spiel during barista champs.

Rewind three months ago, I was an attendee at the Western Australian Barista Champs. One of the judges of the event, Michael Carroll, who writes the Grendel blog kindly posted feedback on the event. To surmise, he believed that those competitors using only single origins suffered in their espressos. Their espressos were one-dimensional and unbalanced for his liking, and this was seen in the results; the top three baristas all utilised blends and not single origins.

This got me thinking. All barista's, both at the West Aussie Champs and the recent Aussie Nationals informed the judges early during their presentation as to the constituents of their blend / or single origin. Jean Paul in the Nationals even took the step of writing the origins in his blend alongside tasting notes down in front of the judges - that was a clever move from a psychological perspective. It primed the judges as to what they can expect in a way that saw Jean Paul differentiate himself from the other competitors, and it was no surprise that he took home a third place. He created a somatic marker in the judges mind, and provided a reference to his coffee for the judges to look back upon when they wished to do so.

The question I would like to scientifically test is how great an influence the talk the barista gives is in influencing the score.

Taste is of course first and foremost in evaluating the beverages produced, but the influence of the words spoken by the barista (alongside prosody and emotional value) should not be underestimated.

Psychology has provided numerous examples of biases in thinking. The Pepsi vs Coca Cola is one I will use to evince my point. Research suggests that a majority of participants prefer Pepsi over Coca Cola when blind as to what they are tasting. Why? Well perhaps, when sipping the drinks in small volume during tastings people prefer the sweeter taste (Pepsi). That's only logical from an evolutionary perspective.

However, when people are told which drink is Pepsi and which is Coca Cola, then a majority prefer the latter. Why? Well, people draw on their past experience and associations with the brand, conjure pleasurable memories and (unconsciously) opt for Coca Cola. Interesting isn't it?

This leads to some intriguing ramifications for judges at championships. When a barista mentions they are using a 'single origin' are they priming the judges in a negative way? Are they bringing to mind the possible negative connotations that judges such as Grendel expresses? Even if their single was golden elixir, would it of still achieved a high a score as one that was a blend of two or three origins.

Clearly we need some empirical science and data here, and I am all of a sudden thinking I could finally get some ideas for a long overdue PhD thesis...one step at a time. Nevertheless, if we conducted two presentations, using the same coffee but informed the same judges that we were using a single origin on one trial and blend in another, would we find a significant difference in tasting scores? Subjectively I feel James Hoffman's WBC winning presentation demystified considerable pejorative concerning single origins, but who knows for sure?

I’m Back!

2010-01-20T00:52:00.001Z

Hi Guys,

Firstly, sincere apologies over the lack of blog updates over the last month. This has been for a reason. I took time to re-evaluate the importance and material featured on this blog, and concluded that a 'name and shame' cafe list is not something I wish to publish, or expound upon my frustrations with a large contingency of cafe's concerning how they treat coffee. It does not benefit anybody.

Rather, I have been, and will be, concentrating on the reputable cafe's and the positive influence I attain from coffee.

Over the last month I have been working pretty much full-time, and have nailed down a few techniques which have improved my espresso extraction and shot consistency. For example, I have now developed a good tamping technique, something that I struggled with for a little while. Whilst not working I have burrowed my head under the books, and have been reading some interesting marketing / consumer psychology books that should be of interest to the hospitality industry, or Psychology students / graduates such as myself. But enough about me!

I will shortly publish a blog about the highlight of 2010 thus far; 'Customs Bar' by Coffee Supreme, located in central Wellington...(they have the Slayer, and produce wonderful coffee)

Woodn’t You?

2009-12-08T10:13:00.001Z

Ah the guys at People's Coffee, the Wellington fair trade roaster, have struck gold with the polypropylene cup; a durable, long-lasting, reusable and environmentally friendly cup that diminishes the need for paper cups and lids, potentially saving thousands of trees from the axe. Just think of all those paper cups and lids that get thrown away everyday; its scary to comprehend the cumulative effect of this negligence has the world over.

What is clever here is that everybody wins in this situation; the environment, the consumer and the retailer. The environmental benefits are obvious, with the consumer feeling proud that they, in comparison to other coffee drinker, have made a decision to benefit the environment. A stronger affection to the brand (i.e. the retailer) is the subsequent result, and this is acknowledged with clear, large branding around the circumference of the cup.

Cups are available in either 8 or 12oz, and allow the drinker to express which espresso-based coffee they would like (flat white, latte, cap etc) with one free coffee included in the price. Environmentally conscience folk have apparently been snapping them up, with demand being much higher than supply. Just to push sales along, People's Coffee raised the price of its takeaways in paper cups. Clever marketing huh!

What is somewhat surprising is why haven't more cafe's been pushing this 'merchandise'? I'm expecting to see more cafes implement polypropylene in the near future.

Barista Accreditation and the Cost of Expansion

2009-12-06T07:19:00.001Z

Today I attended a talk by Carl Sara. What became pellucid is that the word 'barista' is all too casually used. Anyone can step behind a machine, pull and shot are called themselves a barista. Seemingly, many do. So what does it take to rightfully earn the title of being called a barista?

A barista has to be able to 'control the controllable' variables in delivering a shot that balances out the many nuances that coffee can display. The barista must know how their grind, dosing and extraction length impinge the final tasting profile in the cup. The barista must know their coffee, and the influence of related machinery. Carl talked at length about how the barista can manipulate the factors of dosing, fineness of the grind and extraction length to bring out the potential a particular coffee has to offer.

Subjectively I feel that very few coffee makers taste their coffee in commercial settings and conclude that their coffee tastes 'too acidic' or perhaps 'unclean', and subsequently alter the dose, grind and extraction length to attain the best that is possible. Very few judge that the crema dissipated too abruptly, or that the coffee is overtly bitter. Few adjust their dose depending on the age of the coffee.

Coffee makers only replicate what is taught, with many trainers adopting a mentality of regurgitating techniques that are passed down in a nepotistic fashion that neglects science, hinders evolution and prevents development. Coffee is complex, and so should be the path to becoming a barista. Reducing training down to the likes of half day barista courses permeates a lack of understanding and lowers the standards of what coffee could be. It is also disrespectful to those that deserve the title of being called a barista.

One possible solution could be to introduce national accreditation and testing, perhaps established by a subsidiary of the WBC. I am aware that the SCAE has a recognised classification system, but am unaware as to how that is communicated to the general public. Perhaps cafes don't want the increased cost of training. The flipside is the point of difference that could make to a cafe in a competitive market. Currently I am based in New Zealand and believe Australasia in general to be lacking a national classification system of becoming a skilled barista.

There are numerous implications surrounding different levels of skill coffee makers exhibit. The main one I want to briefly touch on is inconsistency and how that relates to business.

What has become apparent to me is that it is near impossible to establish a chain or string of coffee outlets that are consistent in delivering high quality coffee. I find it ludicrous that coffee house owners visit origin, purchase high quality beans and then neglect high standards of their coffee makers. I guess having their photo taken with the farmer connotes how altruistic they are or how serious they take their coffee, but if their baristi are not passionate and skilled what is the point? The best cafes will always be the smaller, more boutique type that can really focus and control quality. I am still looking for one in Wellington!

Double Standards

2009-12-01T06:14:00.001Z

I have visited numerous cafes in Wellington now, often asking for a double espresso (a 'doppio' to be smug!). The response I often hear is 'we serve double shots in all our drinks'. So, I sit down and expect a drink around 50-60ml, in a demitasse.

The first cafe I went to on arrival in Wellington served me a massively over-extracted shot, simply doubling the volume of water that went through the ground coffee! Not relinquishing the shot after 30ml or so, the barista continued to let more water through, a complete over extraction, until there was approximately 60ml in the cup. It was a bitter pill to swallow! The barista even told me that the 18g (estimated) that gets dosed produces a shot volume around 30ml. Thus, quite short shots. I asked why she didn't put two 18g shots through, and was left somewhat unanswered.

So, the next morning I frequent another cafe I have been recommended to, and once again ask for a double espresso. 30ml is what I received, once again from a double basket. Thus it appears that baristi are judging what constitutes a single and double shot based on the ground coffee that is dosed, as opposed to the volume (or mass) of the extraction. So Wellingtonians, take note that the 'double' shot you get told that goes into your beverage will typically be nearer a double ristretto than double espresso. This is not a bad thing, especially if you taste buds are inclined towards a syrupy body. Instead, what I find irritating is the lack of knowledge the barista pulling the shots appear to have regarding what a double espresso consists of!

No Hands Barista Technique

2009-11-30T23:49:00.001Z

I really enjoy watching Stephen Leighton, the UK coffee roaster and founder of Hasbean.co.uk and 'star' of the In My Mug video blog. He has a very welcoming and unassuming persona, and his passion and integrity for coffee is indubitable. He is very clever in teaching (potential) customers coffee skills and knowledge, mainly through user-friendly blogs, manuals and videos. The viewer can relate to Stephen, he breaks down the austere walls that are the facade of the bariSTAR culture.

It was during his last In My Mug blog (number 54 I believe) that he demonstrated an interesting technique; refusing to touch the grounds when dosing and grooming. This got my clogs slowly turning, contemplating that perhaps contact with human fingers could 'contaminate' the final beverage. It would be interesting if anyone has conducted blind tastes of this new variable. Grooming kits and levelling tools have long been used by baristi, but so have using ones hands to implement an even dose into the basket.

If ones hands are clean, then presumably it makes little difference as to whether one grooms with a levelling tool or with their fingers. However, when in the cafe a barista may be grooming 500+ baskets per day, and clean hands can not necessarily be guaranteed. Thus, grooming with dirty hands can introduce undesirable elements in the basket, and influence the beverage that is served.

What is needed to further our knowledge is not anecdotal evidence but laboratory, scientific evidence. We need to be able to control other variables and test for the effect of finger grooming versus other grooming methods. This cannot be conducted at home, where the plethora of conflicting variables results in ambiguity as to what caused the effect. So, science needs to prevail, but this is easier said than done.

If anyone has research connecting to grooming then please get in touch, I'm all ears.

Wellington; Worrying Observations

2009-11-26T00:22:00.001Z

I have been in Wellington, the capital cafe culture of New Zealand for a few days. Apparently there are more cafes per head here than anywhere else in the world. There is a competitive and healthy, but borderline saturated, coffee roasting scene here too. But thus far I have been a little dismayed with the quality of coffee I have found.

I have visited a handful of cafes now, all located within the city centre. I have witnessed numerous worrying scenes, which adds weight to those that claim New Zealand's quality of coffee has stagnated in recent years.

Firstly is the issue of grinding on demand, or lack of it as I have witnessed all too often. Cafes serving 500plus cups a day accommodate slow grinders that would best suit outlets using far less coffee, leaving the barista, or perhaps more fittingly the coffee maker, with little option but to grind ahead. The only thing consistent regarding the extraction is inconsistency. Not good.

Two cafes I frequented over the last couple of days have only made use of two or three milk jugs. Two or three milk jugs to last the whole trading day. These milk jugs don't get washed, cleaned or even emptied throughout the course of the day. Reheating milk appears commonplace, as cafes rightly decline to endure wastage but wrongfully invest in proper barista training.

Ever gone to a cafe with a friend and ordered one full-fat coffee and one semi-skimmed / skinny / trim one? Well, from my experience here, both beverages will be the latter, despite the floor staff telling the patron that one is skinny.

Roasters are predominately retailing their beans to the public in paper bags, as opposed to newer packaging techniques that limit the deterioration of the bean. One only has to read Savonitti, in Illy and Viani's influential book Espresso Coffee to foresee the dangers here.

Unfortunately, I think there may be one or two more posts all similar lines as I observe some more worrying sights, but that is enough moaning for one post.

The secrecy of what’s in a blend

2009-11-24T00:05:00.001Z

Ok, so when I approach a barista or roaster or coffee house I often ask what's in your blend. Some are forthright, honest and informative, happy to answer and expound on how their beans are superior, ethically produced, fair trade etc etc. Some point out the varietal and production method, or why that particular blend consists of the beans it does. I respect those guys and those coffee houses which are open to the public interest. More often than not, I go back there, in addition to informing my peers. Nothing beats positive mouth of mouth publicity.

The other option I hear is that the blend "is a secret". No mention of where the beans are from, what varietal they may be or how they were produced. This bugs me. Their dismissive and often disdainful answer connotes they have something to hide.

The world of gourmet food is increasingly using the 'traceability card'; consumers are more discerning as to the conditions surrounding the production of their food, and chefs and restaurant owners are becoming more proud of marketing their produce as being local. Just look at the recent gentrification of the burger to gourmet standards, in Australia at least. Quality restaurants have long mandated fresh, local produce, and I believe the coffee houses should extrapolate the lesson learnt. Be honest, be open, and reap the rewards.

Why hide what 'ingredients' constitute your blend? It's not as if customers are going to go home, order some green beans from home and then roast them. Telling customers what is in your blend also gives the cafe an opportunity to diversify when an additional blend becomes available, or if the cafe chooses to stock single origins.

Feel free to air your views guys.

Cheers

Crafted Coffee Company, Christchurch

2009-11-23T04:54:00.001Z

I have been in New Zealand for a couple of weeks now, and quite surprisingly believe Christchurch, not Wellington, to be leading the way for espresso in New Zealand.

This is mainly due to Carl Sara's new joint, Crafted Coffee Company. Crafted are importing the finest green beans, not from John Burton Limited (the hand that feeds the majority in New Zealand) and are roasting their prized beauties to a pre-second crack level. This highlights the distinct organoleptic profile that single origins and blends can have. Crafted are diligent and dedicated to changing the rather stagnant espresso scene New Zealand has endured in recent years, in the words of Carl himself. Good friend and fellow respected espresso artisan, Luciano Marcolino of the aptly named Luciano Cafe, also provides the discerning public with sublime single origins roasted by Crafted in addition to his Vivace Espresso house blend.

Located on Blenheim St, south west of the city, Crafted is definitely worth checking out!

Perth Coffee Culture

2009-11-23T04:14:00.001Z

Perth has a growing contingency of coffee-focused businesses. In fact, Perth has the highest density of Synesso machines per capita in the world! Even bakeries are now housing 3-group Synesso's. The problem is trying to educate the public to be more discerning. That is an uphill battle almost every 'specialist' coffee house faces.

I spent a few months during 2009 really delving deep into the coffee culture in Perth. There are a handful of cafe's which deserve recognition, and will do the honour of naming the venerable establishments later. Nevertheless, there are many propitious cafes that are disrespectful to the bean, and charging top dollar for it.

To generalise, people in the West really adore their milk. Large 16oz drinks are popular and over 90% of drinks produced are milk based. Even the supposed Melbournian invention, the long macchiato, gets a sucrose makeover by becoming a double-shot latte in Perth. That volume of milk hides the bitter pill that the majority of cafes produce, whilst also detracting from the quality espresso / double ristretto that is produced in the more admirable coffee focused houses. 'Too cool for school' ambiance and 'bariSTAR' personalities prosper to a degree in the more avant-garde suburbs, but the more apparent problem is that coffee is viewed as a commodity product not just by the consumer, but by the cafe owner and the staff. Location, ambiance and speed of service are more important variables in than quality in the eyes of the consumer. After all, what does quality coffee refer to in the consumer? Coffee is coffee, right? Well no, but unfortunately that myopic view dominates with staff blindly following the steps to espresso extraction taught by those seemingly without a clue, with staff never questioning why they perform certain techniques (more on questionable barista techniques in a later post). To corroborate my point, I will always remember one cafe manager telling me not to touch the grinder after I oversaw a 30ml extraction in around 8 seconds.

Of course I understand that people view coffee in different ways, and I concur with Mark Prince that there are a large section of consumers are "untouchables"; 16oz of milk and two sugars can hide a repulsive shot. What I found so frustrating in Perth, and what I find so ineluctable is the lack of public knowledge regarding coffee. It is my belief that there is a niche for innovative coffee education for the public. No, not a meagre A5 leaflet detailing how well trained your baristas are, or how you serve the "best coffee in town". A serious coffee-focused cafe should explore exciting, enjoyable and multi-faceted ways to communicate the diligence and expertise that is required in making a cup of coffee. For me that is an untapped mine in Perth. Educating the public to be more discerning will force those serving stale, bitter coffee to step up or back away. I

Ristretto Espresso Specialists, Perth

2009-11-23T03:00:00.001Z

During my stint in Perth I found no better place for an espresso than Ristretto, hidden down 160 Central Arcade in the CBD. Emanuele is the proprietor, owner, accountant, barista, roaster, marketing guru and all round nice-guy, and his knowledge and passion are unrivalled in the West. Ristretto have recently began roasting their own beans, having been a former client to Five Senses, a local roaster based just south of the city.

Their customer service, attention to detail and coffee focus are highly commendable, and with a national award for Espresso roasting in the bag (http://www.cafebiz.net/page/the_golden_bean.html) the company will go from strength to strength. Check out their free cupping every Friday, in addition to Roxanne's superb cinnamon scrolls! Award winning barista Jesper Bood also deserves attention for his dedication and consistency in delivering a quality cup.

About Me

2009-11-22T05:53:00.001Z

Hi guys, thanks for taking the time to visit my blog, I hope you enjoy the forthcoming articles.

Firstly, this is a blog about coffee and cafe culture, and a diary of one trying to establish oneself in the industry. I aim to document my rather subjective enjoyment of coffee, in addition to alluding to the annoyances I have picked up upon since diversifying into the world of coffee.

I decided to create a blog for two main reasons. Firstly, I am currently travelling alone, and so it is a form if expressing opinion and sharing my observations with others. Secondly, as my coffee career progresses (hopefully) I hope this blog to be an archival library of a bean enthusiast who started from scratch, not knowing much at the outset but eager to learn. In the six months or so in to my coffee venture I already realise that coffee is a little esoteric beast; the more I know, the more I realise there is more to know.

So it was mid 2009 in Melbourne, Australia that I decided to venture into the world of coffee. I was a guy (still am, in case you were curious!) in his early / mid 20's, from the UK that was discovering the bean, albeit with no real experience of producing coffee based beverages. However I was more than intrigued regarding the conjuring nature of the baristi around me, the sociology and psychology of consumer behaviour, the science behind the arty facade of espresso extraction and the warm, homely vibe I felt when visiting my favourite cafes. I guess having an Honours degree in Psychology, and a rather critical, analytical disposition (I am British after all) were stepping stones leading to this neve ending avenue of coffee exploration.

Fast forward a couple of months to Perth, Western Australia, and employment with various cafes, ranging from superb coffee-focused espresso bars to commodity coffee, profit maximisation focused businesses. You can read my articles and observations regarding the drinking culture in Perth, so I won't elaborate here. Suffice to say I enjoyed my time in Perth, formed good friendships with congenial fellows, in addition to learning what to do and what not to do regarding coffee.

And now New Zealand is my next port of call! I briefly ventured around the South Island of New Zealand, which I shall write about in due course, and am currently based in the capital, Wellington, seeking employment (as well as a room!).

My aim is to further my knowledge of espresso and additional coffee brewing techniques, to ameliorate my barista skills and to establish a more holistic understanding of coffee; from the seed to the cup, encompassing all that is in between. I would like to have a career in the coffee industry, though at this incipient stage do not know where it will take me.

Nevertheless, this is a story of a traveller who is passionate about coffee. I hope you enjoy reading.

Bean Here, Bean There

Over 1000 Flavours

Further Reading

New Year, New Post and New Direction?

A new recruit

Coffee and Research; A Call for Ideas

London

Brewers Cup: Competition Improvements

UK Brewers Cup; My Brew

Time to close the Notes-book

Japan Fundraiser @ Notes

Amsterdam

UKBC finals

Sensory Tip of the Day

The future....online cupping?

The Glass Ceiling

Cupping @ Peter James Gourmet

UKBC

London, Coffee, Minimum Wage....

Milk Chemistry

One Strad Forward?

Notes Music Coffee

Aeropress: At home

West Australian Barista Champs - this weekend

The Quality of Coffee at the UK's Finest Restaurants

The Milk Challenge

Darker Roast = Ristretto Shot?

Complaining

A weekend in Stockholm

Sensory Analysis

Caffe Freddo Sept Menu

West London

Collaborative Research

Experimenting with the AeroPress and ExtractMojo; part 1

The Cost of Being a Barista

UK: So much potential

Best Espresso Blend of 2010 Thus Far

Edinburgh for a few days

The Influence of Temperature on Taste

The WBC: Baristas and Magicians

WBC Week

Upcoming WBC/ SCAE Conference

Australian Barista Blog

Best Before Dates

Padre Coffee in Melbourne

Melbourne: Day 1 and 2

Bean here... Ben there

Less Is More?

Latte Art Throwdown @ Memphis Belle Cafe; 14/05/2010

Wellington Food Show

Everything but Espresso - Scott Rao

New Zealand Wine Centre, Napier

Adoro Cafe, Napier, NZ

Coming Home

Cupping Coffee Supreme and Monmouth Coffees

Signature Drinks

NZBC Finals This Saturday

Ratio of Milk to Espresso

Reservoir Dogs in the Cafe

The Coffee Birthplace of Gwilym Davies

The Coffee Maker and the Barista

Auckland Barista Comp

le Nez du Cafe

Bean: Pomeroy's Coffee & Tea Co, Nelson, NZ.

Sample Roasters - Where Art Thou?

New Zealand Barista Championship: Christchurch Regional

Upcoming Blogs

Future of Barista Competitions?

Decaf for the Comps?

Wow...readership. (re Pre-ground Coffee)

Integrated Scales

Trading Fairly and Coffee Prostitution!

Kudos to the Boss

On The Road Again

Developing the Palate

Customs Brew Bar by Coffee Supreme – It’s Supreme!

The Psychology of the Barista Talk at Championships

I’m Back!

Woodn’t You?

Barista Accreditation and the Cost of Expansion